Question about Whirlpool LEQ8000JQ Electric Dryer

5 Answers

Operating Thermostat Burnt out Twice

I've been having a problem with my dryer not producing heat. I tracked it down to a faulty operating thermostat and the thermal cutoff. After replacing the operating thermostat and thermal cutoff the heat worked fine for about 10 minutes and then only cold air was blowing again.

I checked the newly replaced operating thermostat and it had burnt out again! The thermal cutoff seems to bo OK, now. What could be causing the operating thermostat to burn out like this?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • Matt Gurzenski Jan 26, 2008

    When I run a load without the vent, Can I run a load with the wires that go to the operating thermostat taped together to bypass the thermostat and avoid burning out a new thermostat, or will that cause more damage?

    Also, I did try to clean out the vent after it burnt out the second time. There was a bunch of lint, but it didn't seem to be excessive or blocking anything.

  • Matt Gurzenski Jan 26, 2008

    See comments above.

  • Matt Gurzenski Jan 26, 2008

    Master_Tech thanks for your response.



    It's a six year old dryer, I am going to delint it now. No, I don't think anyone has ever opened the dryer to delint it.



    Yes, the exhaust is coming out strong.



    I've attached a picture which shows how I can get hot air to flow through the dryer by removing the purple wires going to the thermostat and connecting them together with electrical tape.



    I'm guessing it's not safe to run the dryer like this, but do you think I can run a few loads of laundry with this setup? Also, I replaced this is one of the parts that I replaced last weekend.



    Thanks for your help!

  • Matt Gurzenski Jan 26, 2008

    I tried connecting the purple wires back to the tstat and tried running a cycle with timed drying and got only COLD air.



    My e-mail is mgurzenski at hotmail dot. com



    Thanks for your help!

  • Matt Gurzenski Jan 26, 2008

    Purple wires connected to tstat and Red/Red White wires = COLD air on timed drying and "Normal" accudry mode.

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Ok..move the dryer to the desert..the air there is much warmer..

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

  • Patrick Michaels
    Patrick Michaels Feb 20, 2008

    this is a guy that ought to join as an expert, eh?

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Hi,

Start the dryer in a cycle and watch the burner area. You should see the ignitor start to glow. After a few seconds of it glowing you should hear a click and the gas come on and ignite. If the ignitor does not glow, look on the top of the air duct to the left of the gas valve. You will see 2 temp sensors. One will be white with 2 small blue wires going to it. UNPLUG THE DRYER NOW Remove the wires and connect them together. BE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE
Plug dryer back in and start dryer again and see if ignitor glows and burner lights. If it works now, you need a new thermal fuse. You also want to make sure the vent duct is not clogged with lint or the hose is not kinked. I DO NOT recommend that you run the dryer with this bypassed. It is a safety mechanism.
If this is not the problem or your dryer is not front servicable, post back and i will try to walk you through the problem.

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate me as fixya..

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

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Yes u can run few loads way u are just watch it worse happen power breaker wil go off ok might be fulty thermal state not taking the reg wire config ok but yes do few loads it wont hurt u thx nick

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

  • nick helpap
    nick helpap Feb 06, 2008

    also 6 yrs old thats like new cheak controller board also for short outs thx nick

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I belive there are people out there who fix problams if you look in the yellow pages or phone book look for dryer repair i know people on here should help but it is easier if people could see the problam.

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

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Have you checked the venting ???? the heat could be backing up into the dryer causing it to burn out.?? Run a load with no vent on and see if it is ok..JUST a NOTE:the operation(cycling) stat the Hi limit Stat and the Thermal cutoff are all diffrent The Thermal cut off is located on the upper part of the heating element housing...The hi limit is on the bottom of the element by the terminals to the heating element.. the cycle stat is on the exsh. ducting I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same part

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    did you try to run a load with the vent off?? also the breakdown of any thermostat or thermal fuse is Heat related either caused by heat backing up into the system or lack of air floww you may need to open the dryer and delint it how old is it ?? has this ever been done?? is the exhaust feel strong coming out the back??

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    Did you do the things that i had asked so we can look deeper into the unit??

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    the wires you are taping off are for a little heater in the stat it is wired thru the moisture sensor first plug back in the wires and set on a timed cycle see if it works ok ... You may have a short in the sensor circuit causing the tsat to burn out...POST you email here and i will get you the service manual in PDF format

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    leave the purple wires on and jumper the re and red/white ones on the stat and retest

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    check your email

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd Jan 26, 2008

    Wow you kill he here all the help i gave you on this machine and you rate my help 2nd best to a guy who advises you to call a local repair company ...GEEEEZZZ

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Possible solutions

1. Defective Heating Element

The heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
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2. Defective Heating ElementThe heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, then
the heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.

3.Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.

4. Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

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