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Re: trouble shooting XM-1652Z Amp
Grab yourself a test light and make sure that not only the 12v red power wire is putting out power but the thin blue or 12 volt turn on wire is also showing power. Then test the ground terminal and make sure u have a good ground. If that doesnt work try checking the amps fuses and check the fuse and connection on the battery. If everything checks out ok and the problem persists then put a small test speaker to the channel outputs and make sure that u are getting noise from those channels if you dont get any noise then u most likely have bad outputs and blown channels, you will need a new amp. Good luck, hope i was good help.
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if your amp is overheating your sub is needing to much power that the amp doesnt have.
if its cutting out and the red light comes on you need to check the wiring. nothing not even the tinyest speaker wires can be touching.
proper wiring would be your best bet.
but i would upgrade amps.
cheap bang isnt reliable.
The r.e.m. terminal is the remote terminal. It needs a switched 12 volt source from your battery to turn the amp on. Depending on what kind of cd player you have there, should be a remote lead from the cd player. On most aftermarket cd players it is a blue wire. otherwise you can hook the remote up to an accesory lead that only turns on when the car turns on. If you need I can allaborate on that procedure more. I hope I could help.
First off, according to the manual, the protect light should be green. That's normal operation. If it is red, that's a problem.
If it does go red, disconnect all of the wiring to the amp except the +12V and ground. Short the remote connection to the +12V to force the amp on. If the protect light still lights red, the issue is inside the amp and will need repair. If the issue goes away, try reconnecting one wire at a time until the protect light goes red again.
Does this amp have individual chanel fuses? these are usually found near the RCA Inputs. If so then take them out and check if they are blown. Then check the speaker outputs to make sure thee is nothing like fluff or any crossed wire strands as some of these amps have an auto cutout. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have blown the output chips and the cost to fix is more than replacing with a new one. hope this helps
a loose or corroded connection can cause this problem...do not overlook possible loose fuse holder...also look into remote control line...also check speaker line for a loose or shorted connection...a loose connection in any of these locations can cause a spike in the current drawn from the power supply... a bad speaker can play at low volume but short at high volume; if the flex wires from frame to cone on the speaker start to fail, it happens at high volume first, and sounds like a crackle, and gradually becomes present at lower levels; a voice coil can warp at high signal levels, causing it to short intermittently, in addition, you might check the cooling capability of the amp...i don't recall whether you have a fan on this amp...
The speaker level input is designed to accept the speaker level signal from a head unit. This is generally no more than 20 watts RMS. If you drive the inputs with more than 20 watts, you risk damaging the input circuits of the amp.
The best thing to do is to get a amp that is more watts than your subs, not the other way around, speakers are known to handel a lil more power but amps cant produce more power than they are capable of... your ground wire should be thick also, say 6 to 8 mm or so, and its best to put in a cap and an equalizer. Cheers