Question about Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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How do you replace the heating element

No warm air at all.

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  • tobym Jan 26, 2008

    The dryer has a four prong plug. I'm almost certain it's a 220 circuit and not a 110. The dryer has two, 30 amp circuit breakers. I'm a computer engineer, not a electrical one Jim! :-) The dryer was working (had some heat while drying) but it seemed there was less heat over time. I had to repeat the drying cycle mulitple times to get the clothes dry. As of yesterday, there is no heat at all, leading me to beleive it's the heating element.

    Thanks for your timely response!


  • tobym Jan 26, 2008

    BTW, this is a new construction and the exchaust vent is free of obstructions....

  • tobym Jan 27, 2008

    Ok, I reset the breakers. I let them sit in the off position for 3 hours, no change. The dryer is still blowing cold air. I will think about becoming a member, using my talents might be worthwile.

  • whizbang Jan 31, 2008

    I have the exact same problem However I know I am on 220 since this dryer has been operating for years

  • tobym Feb 05, 2008

    Ok, I reset the breakers. I let them sit in the off position for 3 hours, no change. The dryer is still blowing cold air.

  • tobym Feb 09, 2008

    UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS REPAIR, DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY COULD OCCUR. To replace the heating element, you need to remove the bottom panel directly below the dryer door. There are two screws on both sides of the panel. It requires a 1/4 inch nut driver. On the right side of the dryer, there is a metal bracket that needs to be removed, it is secured with 1/4 sheet metal screws just like the bottom panel. There is a screw on the top and one on the bottom which supports the heating element housing, it is a pedistal that supports the ducting where the heating element is installed. After removing the the pedistal, there is another sheet metal screw just behind the power terminals. Remember, UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE REMOVING THE SCREW, ELECTRICAL SHOCK AND DEATH COULD OCCUR! Remove the power connections from both terminals (remember which wires goes where, there are to red wires, one with a white stripe, on my dryer the white striped wire connected to the bottom terminal) and remove the sheet metal screw directly behind the power termination point (where you removed the wires). Getting the heating element out was a bit of a challenge, it is secured by a pressure pushing mechanism (not quite sure what it's called) that causes the heating element to remain securly in place in the housing/duct. It takes considerable effort to remove the heating element from the housing. I used plyers and grabbed the support structure of the heating element coils and then pulled it out while holding the housing/ducting in place. The housing seems a little fragile so I used care while removing the heating element. I also used care while inserting the new one, it does take some forceful pressure to get the new one in place.

    After knowing where the heating element was (no thanks to this website, a local community repair specialist told me), I noticed considerable damage to the heating element. You may not see damage like I did on my dryer (the heating element wires were melted and fused to the housing/duct). After removing the heating element, carefully inspect it for damage, the smallest break in the coil could render it inoperable. If the heating element appears to be in working order (test it with an OHM meter) then the problem may reside in some other part of the dryer.

  • Anonymous Dec 12, 2008

    How u doing everyone? I do have the same problem with my dryer. The coils were melted down. The springs broke like a fuze burn out. You get service in your town at an small appliance store to help you with any question or to order new parts. That's it.



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First you need to make sure the heating element is the problem dryers will run on 110 but will not heat with out 220 first you need to confirm that you have 220 then let me know what you find hold my rating till we are done and don't buy a heating element yet

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • robert samples Jan 26, 2008

    hey we ain't done im an appliance tech so you have two lines coming in each line is 110 together they make 220-240 one side goes to the drive motor the other goes to the heater lots of times double breakers can partially trip now i can get you to the heating element but don't want you replacing a part you may not need don't worry about it its not rocket science just a machine the best thing to do is just go rest the breaker and see if it heats you got a 4 prong plug because the codes in your area require a body or earth ground for the drier so green goes to the body of the drier white to neutral red to one 110 leg blk to the other 110 leg but ive fixed a lot of these by just resetting the breaker also if your a computer engeneer why dont you join the site here and become an expert can make cash here too doing live chats ive made about 70 bucks this month just setting here

  • robert samples Jan 26, 2008

    iwent on a new constution site one day and they had cut the hole in the drywall but not the outside wall lol point take nothing for granted

  • robert samples Feb 05, 2008

    first facing the dryer remove the filter then remove the two hex head screws pull the bottom out and away from the case over on the right hand side you will see the vent tube with the heater in it.



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Mayrag dryer blower is working, heating element

Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Dec 05, 2010

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