Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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GE Arctica Refridgerator, PSS26MSRB SS, water leaking from tray, and other questions

I moved into a house that has this refridgerator in it. GE Profile PSS26MSRB SS - made in 2004 I think.
I've noticed that if there is any water laying in the water tray, it will LEAK under the trim of the dispenser, see these pics:

1) Not sure what is invlolved to fix this? Cost?
Also, I notice when the motor turns on/off to maintain the temperature, it's a little loud. I can manually make this motor turn on/off but pressing the Turbo cool button, see video here:
2) Is this normal for this unit?

3) Also, I've noticed that the light for turno always stays on, but when you press Turbo, it gets brighter, but never goes off.

Posted by on

  • 9 more comments 
  • Collegeboy Jan 25, 2008

    Thanks for the fast reply!

    How do I get that dispenser out of there?

    So the Turbo light never goes out then, just gets dim when not in turbo mode? Mine never goes out, and I can make it come on by pressing it and the light gets brighter.

    Does GE warranty the new quiter fan? It's is loud for a refridgerator.

  • Collegeboy Jan 30, 2008

    Ok, I think I found the issue with where the WATER is coming from. After filling a glass of water up, if you walk away and come back 3-4 hours later, there is a decent sized puddle in the tray. It seems it will drip like once an hour from the water tube. Any ideas?

  • Collegeboy Jan 30, 2008

    Thanks. I also posted this issue on another site, and got this reply, see below:

    I also do have that type of self piecing connection he is referring to in the basement.

    reply below

    That will be the water valve at the back of the fridge not closing tightly.

    Such a symptom could be caused by a defective water fill valve or not

    enough water pressure getting to that valve.

    LINK > Water fill valve for PSS26MSRA... and PSS26MSRC...

    Lack of pressure could be caused by a plugged sediment screen (if installed)

    in the water line at the valve, a kinked water line to the fridge or use of a

    'self piercing' saddle valve on the house water pipe for the fridge's supply line

    or any kind of saddle valve mounted on the underside of a horizontal pipe.

    Only a drill type saddle valve should be used for a refrigerator water supply

    (if not a regular plumbing valve) and only mounted on the side of a vertical

    pipe or the top of a horizontal pipe.

  • Collegeboy Mar 15, 2008

    Comment by tech17, posted on Jan 30, 2008
    well low pressure will stop them from opening but not closing the valves are shut by a sping plunger assembly in the selonoid id just replace the valves"

    In response to what you said above, it has to be the sping plunger thing then. I'm assuming that is included with that new valave assembly unit for $34??? If so I'm ordering

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    The links I posted to my pics and video, didn't show up correctly. Please copy and paste the links without the image tags I put before and after them. Then you'll be able to see them.

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    Well, in an hours time, there is a huge puddle in the bottom. This is not normal. I was just at a friends house, and he has the same fridge I do, no drips after filling a glass, even after 2 hours, nothing. My parents house with a 15 year old GE, no drips. The things is, this isn't just dripping a little, it will make a huge puddle. Still open to suggestions.

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    Got ya, but what about the saddle valve. I think you said not to use the self piercing kind, did you get to see the pics I posted of the valve??? You will have to copy and paste. I thank you again.

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    Yea, replaced the valve. The water pressure is great throughout the house. There is also something called a "contant pressure pump" for the well, so, you could be running say 3 faucets, 1 shower, a hose outside, and flush the toilet, and there is no decrease in pressure. This is just very strange.

    One last thing. Also, another note. The ware filter inside the fridge is a "gwf". I saw there is a newer filter out called the "mwf". I haven't change the gwf flter as the previous owner had the water turned off on the fridge for the 2 years he lived in the house, so he says.... So, yea that gwf filter has been in there for two years, but supposedly there wasn't water going through it until I moved in 6 months ago, so I think.

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    Hmm, ok. So what do I do next?

  • Collegeboy Apr 02, 2008

    Hehe, I think we are the same with sleep, don't get much either. Do you have an instant messaging program? Might be a little easier as this issue is getting much deeper. Let me know.

  • Collegeboy Apr 04, 2008

    Ok. Now I'm about to go crazy.

    Tested with the old self piercing valve, and it took 4 min and 50 sec to fill the huge 5 gallon bucket from the small coper line on the back of the fridge.

    Drilled the hole to 1/4", and then did the test. 2min and 50 sec! No joke, it was double the speed.

    Put it all back together, and it still drips, same thing as before. I don't get it. The water pressure coming out of the tube was super hard, night and day, but it still drips.

    Here is the new drill valve in place.

    Wasn't sure how much I was supposed to thread the valve into the first bracket that the rubber piece sits behind. I twisted it in maybe 3 turns, and the shaft barely sticks into the copper pipe. It doesn't leak. Wasn't sure if I needed to thread it all the way into that bracket, see pic. Again, nothing leaks on the valve.

    Not sure what to do now. I just can't figure it out. What are the chances of the brand new water fill valve being bad. I tried the old one, and the new one, same drips at the dispenser.



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Ok first the water dispenser i would take out the drip tray and run a thin bead of black silicone to seal it there as to the turbo light getting brighter its because when you switch on turbo its running more power through the switch to the fan now to the fan early model fans were noisy i think ge redid them and if you contact ge you can get one of the newer fans hope this helps by the way loved the pics and mpeg that helps

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

  • 7 more comments 
  • robert samples Jan 25, 2008

    the drip tray should just lift up and you can seal under it and you'd have to contact ge technical about the fan it was in a service a while back but i don't know how they are dealing with it now

  • robert samples Jan 30, 2008

    yep water valve leaking replace the valves they come in sets so you have to replace them both

  • robert samples Jan 30, 2008

    well low pressure will stop them from opening but not closing the valves are shut by a sping plunger assembly in the selonoid id just replace the valves

  • robert samples Apr 02, 2008

    jason my friend your spending too much time on this that's why they call them drip trays because of gravity now the water comes up the tube from inside the door over the hump at the top of the disp then down to the exhaust point now the water in the down spout part will drip because of gravity but when it clears that point if the water valve isn't leaking it will stop that's why we changed the valve to eliminate that pliability if i could be there in person could evaluate it better but i hit the only part it could be ok now the drip tray has no drain but every so often you have to empty it also there is a low voltage heater under the dispenser hsg that's supposed to dry the normal water drip from the dispensers that could be bad i can take you there if you want to go but id just get a glass plastic and pull it out when i get water and put it in in the mean time but if you want to deal with the heater my Friend im here for you but they all drip more than likely you housing heater is bad

  • robert samples Apr 02, 2008

    as i told you there is a heater that dries the water that drips why do you thinh they call it a drip tray but there is a heater that dries the water may be bad i dont work for ge any more im on the net for free but we may have a bad heater or a issue with the well pump pressure settings we started with the most common cause but as you said other people you know with the same unit dont have this promblem so we got to get out there but i worry about you money i am a good tech as long as you want to try we can test im the guy people come to when all eles fails no brag just fact you with me

  • robert samples Apr 02, 2008

    no i don't know who posted that but its not relevant to your problem you getting water too much is your problem and you replaced the valve right i think we may have to test the cut in cut out pressure of your well pump if it exceeds the high rating of the valve could be causing a micro leak at the valve most people believe that the units have pumps that work in a neutral environment if you want to know more tonight ill be happy to tell you about it but don't want to keep you up my self i don't sleep much may be 2 hours a day lol but plenty of time for rest in the grave lol

  • robert samples Apr 02, 2008

    the filter wont affect the problem your having if the filter was bad you would get no water we must have a pressure prombem and it will be in the well pump ive seen it before its in the pumps cut out pressure

  • robert samples Apr 02, 2008

    get some rest im in chattanooga will con tact you tommrow and go from there

  • Collegeboy Jan 20, 2011

    How do you check to see if the heater is bad below the tray?



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