I would recommend you check your lid switch. Slamming the washer lid will only compound the issue and eventually will cause the lid to warp and additionally break the lid strike (if equipped). Due to the frequency of use, the lid switch does wear out and it is the most common cause of these symptoms. Its also an inexpensive repair. If the washer
fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunctuion. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer
top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim
of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim
) and make sure they are snug.
If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console
in order to access this type of switch.
NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.
If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch
If parts are needed, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect
.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic
.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing
, so shop
all of them for the best price
This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.