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Removing and replacing old gasket on servis auto 800 washing machine

I need to remove the old gasket and replace with a new one. Looks easy enough but can't get any further than that.Old one has a spring I cant move, and not I'm sure how to manoeuvre it off. Servis automatic 800. M3008W

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SOURCE: changing door gasket on Servis M9813s washer dryer

you can clean in situ just as good as if you remove it

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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SOURCE: Servis Washing machine clothes wet

I don't know the specific machine, but this is a fairly generic problem, so I hope the following helps: The empty pump cycle is a timed operation, the fact that there is still water in the drum after the time allowed for the pump to drain it has run out means that the water isn't clearing out fast enough.

In order of probability, the problem is usually caused by:
1. A blocked filter
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain
3. A Faulty pump

1 Blocked Filter: Many machines have a small door in the bottom of the chassis. Behind this door (Usually about 5 inches square) is a filter, which will usually unscrew. In this filter you will find fluff, string, coins, the odd small sock and all sorts of nasty stuff if you haven't had the filter out before. If the filter is blocked then the pump is having to draw water through all that gunk and it will run out of time and leave water in the drum. Clean the filter in the sink, pocket the coins you find and make a note to clean it regularly in the future Most manufactures will suggest you check it every 2 months or so, depends how often you are using the machine of course.
Unfortunately, other machines do not have filters so easily accessible. If there is no door or obvious access to the filter, some manufacturers put a trap in the rubber hose that feeds the pump. The pain here is that the access to these traps is gained by dragging the bachine out of its place under the work surface and tipping it on to its back. Track the waste pipe back to locate the pump. On the other side of the pump will be a thicker (usually black rubber) pipe and built into this pipe is usually a little bucket that stuff can fall into before it gets to the pump. You can usually squeeze the pipe and feel if there is stuff in it. If there is, then depending on the machine again, some of these traps will have a plug in the bottom that is held in place by a spring clip (Pliers to compress the spring to get it off) or a screw clip (Unscrew with a screwdriver). Enev if there is no trap as such, squeeze the rubber delivery pipe and feel for obstructions (Often a sock!), if necessary, disconnect the pipe from the pump to gain access to the blockage. WARNING!: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, to the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend butting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain: Start at the point that the pipe enters the household drain pipe, pull out the empty pipe and check that water will flow freely into the drain (Stuffing the garden hose down there and turning it on (but not TOO FAST) will usually demonstrate if there is a blockage. If this is free, check the pipe that runs from the pump to the drain (This will need the machine tipping as described above, and possibly the pipe removing from the pump to check it.
3. A Faulty Pump:If you have done everything described so far, then you have checked for obstructions in the pipe leading to the pump, the pipe leading away and you have cleaned out any filters or traps... If you still have a problem, you have a faulty pump. This is highly unlikely. These pumps have induction motors (no brushes to fail) and in my experience, they either work, or they don't. They very seldom "work a bit". If SOME water is being pumped (check by putting the empty hose in the sink and watching) then you really need to double check your work before replacing the pump. Good news is, if you do have to they are usually reasonably priced.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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SOURCE: servis easy logic 1600 wont

servis easy logic 1600 wont spin just moves the drum half a turn and stops but repeats all the time

Posted on Feb 15, 2010

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SOURCE: fixing door gasket to servis washing machine

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

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Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: I am looking for a user manual for a Servis wahicg


Please download asap - as it is stored on my personal FTP site, and will be removed in 48 hours.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Head over to the manufacturer's website.

Typically they have a SUPPORT section - where you enter the FULL model number, and then can download a FREE manual.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 16, 2010

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SOURCE: Servis Easi Logic 1500(M6050) Washing Machine doesn't wash & spin

It appears your timer/main controller/CCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to or and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...

FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.

If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.

Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!!

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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How to replace door seal on washing machine Bosch Advantixx ?

How to Replace the Door Seal on a Washing Machine - Bosch
One of the most common faults of a leaking washing machine is a faulty seal. Thankfully replacing such a component of your washing machine is not a difficult task.
In the above video, with the help of our experienced team, we explain how to replace the washing machine door seal, and below we've compiled a simple step-by-step guide which takes you through every point covered in our video.
Step 1: To remove the door seal on any make and model of washing machine, you'll need to remove the entire front panel, followed by the soap dispenser and fascia.
Removing the panel and fascia is easy to do, once you've undone the screws holding it in place, whilst the soap dispenser should just clip out of place.
Step 2: With these components removed, clip away the kick plate, put the drain hose to one side before removing the retaining clip which holds the door seal against the front of the machine. Once the clip has been removed just push the seal inside.
Step 3: Undo the four remaining screws holding the front of the machine on, before pulling the front of the machine and the door away from the machine.
Once the front of the machine is off, you should be able to see the spring retaining band going all the way around thedrum. This should be easy to pull off, enabling you to peal the whole old seal away; once you've removed the old seal this can be thrown away, although it is advisable to keep the retaining band, as this can be reused with the new seal.
Step 4: You'll now be ready to attach the new seal, when doing so make sure that the drain holes are positioned at six o'clock; once you've done this it is just a case of working the new seal onto the drum.
With the seal worked onto the drum, put the retaining spring into its little ridge, before giving the seal one final check.
Step 5: Reattach all the parts back to your washing machine, attaching the door seal to the front of the machine ensuring that it goes over the lip, before attaching the retaining band on the bottom and sides.
There you have it, a step-by-step guide to replacing the door seal on a washing machine, helping it to perform to its optimum level.

How to Replace the Door Seal on Washing Machine Bosch

Feb 17, 2016 | Bosch Washing Machines

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How to change door lock on servis 1000 gem washing machine

I would guess that the plastic latch hook (my invented name for it) has broken. Easy to do because the wretched design does not show whether the lock is still on or not. When you have your replacement you just have to remove the two screws inside the door latch, noting how it all fits together, and refit the new kit. Careful with the screws; one of mine is now loose and will need plugging. BTW I have managed just one wash with a super-glued latch hook!


May 21, 2012 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do I replace the door gasket on a Westinghouse front loading washing machine? Have taken off the front steel ring that holds the gasket in place, but looks like I need to take the front panel off the...

The step by step procedure to replace the head gasket are:
  1. Open door and pull on inside of gasket to expose screws or 1/4 nuts.
  2. Loosen[do NOT remove] all screws and pull old gasket out.
  3. Place new gasket in sink of hot water to soften it and put back around door.
  4. Snug up a couple of screws on each side and test seal by shutting door.
  5. You may need to adjust inner panel until just right..then tighten all screws

Sep 23, 2009 | Westinghouse Washing Machines

1 Answer

Im needing to know how to install the replacement door boot-bellow seal on my front load washing machine. i purchased the seal that i was told is a universal seal due to the original seal part no longer...

Candie, The tub gasket (door seal) is part number #WH08X10022 with a new substitution part #WH08X10036. However, since each model can be slightly different, depending on the serial number which denotes when it was manufactured, you might want to confirm that the above gasket is the correct one for your particular washer.

I'd suggest you call the folks at Sears Parts Direct at 1-800-252-1698 and give them your complete model number AND serial number before you start in on the repair, so you can be sure you have the correct substitution bellows gasket.

It's a relatively easy repair, all you need to do is remove the spring retaining wire around the outer edge of the bellows gasket, just peel it back at the edge to see it. Now locate the locking loop by going around the rim. Once you find the locking loop, you can remove it using a couple pairs of small needle nose pliers as they make it easier to get off.

Once you've done that, you'll see the locking plate that holds the back side of the bellows gasket onto the outer washer tub. Remove those fasteners and you can get the bellows off and start in on putting the new bellows onto the washer, just reversing the order you used in the removal process.

Here's a line drawing that shows the exploded view of the tub section, with the gasket (item #306). Just take your time removing the old gasket so you remember what you're doing and when installing the new gasket so as not to rip or tear it in the process. I'd also suggest you let the gasket relax for a good 4-5 hours (to get the kinks and folds out of it from the packing box) before you do the installation.

Here's another link to one of my other solutions for installing a bellows gasket on a GE front loading washer that you can also review for more installation tips, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Sep 17, 2009 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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There is a black tape that seems to be unraveling from my maytag atlantis. This tape is under the top rim of the basket. Any Ideas of what this is and if it needs to be replaced. My machine is 8 years old

Looks like this is the white plastic shield gasket:
You need to remove the front panel, loosen the top panel to be able to remove the plastic shield (it's just clipped on).
Once you have the shield removed, put gasket back in place so you are back in washing business.
Good Luck!

Aug 17, 2009 | Maytag Washing Machines

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Buy a new washing machine, seriously, i had a servis M6002s, only had it for 13mts and it died, it wouls have cost £130.00 to repair. After doing a few online serches for the machine i found loads of other people with th same problem. I was outraged to be honest, granted they are not the most expensive machines out there but if you pay £250.00 for a washing machine you expect to get at least 3 yrs out of it. Needless to say i won't be buying a servis again, absolute rubbish.........

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you can clean in situ just as good as if you remove it

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Try following this link :

Many got help, didn't paste the entire thing here as didn't wanted to spam the site.


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