Question about Kenmore 43142 Front Load Washer
Your filter &/or pump could be blocked. Remove bottom panel three screws, unscrew filter cap (have lots of towels cause it will drain), remove filter & clean out. Refit. If you have manual refer to it. Pl rate me if helped.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Press "end of cycle" button to clear the screen.
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
Rate me pl.....if helped.
Posted on Jan 06, 2008
It sounds like your tub bearing is bad or going bad. It could be the adjustment on your spin cycle. Does your unit allow you to adjust this. Also are you overloading. Can you send me the brand and model of your unit and I help you more.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Check your lid switch. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. The part number for the model you have listed is 8054980.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. If you determine the lid switch is still working, also let me know. This could be a sign of a more significan problem and I will need you to elaborate on any additional symptoms you may be getting. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform yourself. I hope this information is helpful.
Posted on Mar 29, 2010
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