Question about Kodak Carousel 4600 Slide Projector
The projector appears to mechanically drop slides fine at first. After some time, it apparently heats up and quits dropping the slides. I noticed when looking through the rear of unit that there is what appears to be some small fragmentation pieces on the bottom of unit. These fragmented pieces look as if they may be breaking off of an item that looks like a larger resistor or varistor. I am wondering if there is a cooling issue or air flow problem. If not, then maybe this item that is fragmenting may need to be replaced. Please assist me with any information to resolve this problem.
Don't know if you have this figured out or not but I think this is what's going on. The debris in the bottom, I'm assuming is either white or if a very old unit, brown. It's insulating ceramic from the surface of the lamp dimming resistor and should pose no particular electrical threat. The sole exception to that would be is it's an old unit (600/700/800 series of Carousel or E2/E2 Ektagraphics-there were a few specialised models in that style too) AND the metal lower body was damaged so it would allow the metal to touch the outside of the resistor which is mounted on the fan housing. If no damage, no worry.
As for the not dropping slides, the most likely cause is dirt and/ or dried up lubrication on the lifter ass'y. The lifter is the arm that rises up and holds the slide up until the tray moves it forward and then the lifter falls down after the subsequent slide is in place. If you are lucky, you can use a few Q-tips wetted (not soaked) with rubbing alcohol. Carefully observe , with the lamp turned off, every surface you can see that the lifter rubs against on its travel up and down inside the gate (the opening the slides fall into). Clean those surfaces, as well as the lifter, where it makes contact. There may or may not be a white plastic strip inside the gate that the lifter rubs against. Clean that in particular.
If this doesn't do the trick, and you feel you can do this part, remove the lower body. This is easier with the older models newer ones may require a special Torx type driver. Mark their locations- those at the handle (newer style) are shorter.
Locate the pivot point of the lifter and clean it with the alcohol or a bit of WD-40. If you have access to a very light grease put just a little on the pivot point wherever it makes contact.
While you are in there, and IF this is a newer model , you can avoid another similar problem. ONLY IF you are are OK with operating the projector with power applied, have it turned upside down and, with a remote control preferably (so you don't jostle the projector, activate the advance. Observe a small grey metal "trigger" that moves for a split second, releasing the thick white gear below it.The trigger will stay in motion a bit longer if using the Reverse . Now disconnect the power and look at the pivot point of that trigger. Drop 2 -4 drops of alcohol on the pivot and gently rock the trigger back and forth. This cleans out old oil. Apply one or two drops (no more) of the lightest oil you can find.("Sewing machine" oil may be OK or very light oil you sometimes get with hair clippers or electric razors) It's almost better to have no oil at this point, than a heavy one. The symptom you get when this trigger starts to stick is that it will advance 2 or 3 slides at a time before stopping.
Reassemble the bottom being careful to fit any wiring inside and not pinch it in any way.
Posted on Feb 06, 2008
Derek's answer worked great for me! I added a little "insurance" to the solution by glueing a nut to the arm that lowers the slide, to work with gravity to help it make it to the bottom of it's travel should it start to get hung up again. Please watch my youtube video that illustrates the problem, and the solution. Thanks again, Derek.
Posted on Dec 18, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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