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Re: Burner ignites but doesn't stay lit
The Thermocoupler is faulty or has a bad connection - once the burner is lit, it heats the thermocoupler which then send a small signal to the valve to stay on - at that time you release the knob and the valve stays on ( supplies gas). If you give me a model number, i can get you a part number and price.
Mpservices - Thank you for the correct diagnosis. Well done!
I had a similar "burner will not stay lit" problem, unil I read mpservices' solution/comment. I realized that of the two pins at the burner base the one in the ceramic insulator is the igniter lead, but the other is the Thermocoupler probe! Closer examination showed my TMC to be cacked with residue (it was the coffe maker burner). An emery cloth cleaning restored proper operation.
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If The Burner lights and stays lit as long as the knob is depressed, but goes out after the knob is released then there is a failure with the thermocoupler or the valve itself. The thermocoupler can be tested once removed from the cooktop - as follows
Heat the tip on the thermocoupler with a match or lighter and measure the electrical connection (other end) with a voltmeter - it should read about 15 mV or slightly more with in a few seconds. If no voltage is read then the thermocoupler is faulty and should be replaced.
The valve coil can also be tested for continuity at while the unit is disassembled. If no continuity is found the valve is faulty and should be replaced
The small voltage created from heating the thermocoupler energizes the coil in the valve which in turn keeps the gas turned on while there is heat at the thermocoupler.
Some units actually reignite the burner if the heat is lost and the control knob is in the on position.
The electrode (spark plug) for that burner is not telling the spark module the burner is lit and go ahead and turn off the spark. That electrode and the wiring on it need to be replaced,from that burner back to the spark module. I found this place online that sells that part http://www.expertappliance.com/partfinder-gas-stove-elite.php
Need a new fsd ( looks like a small brass pencil) for the burner that won't light. The alignment of the ignition electrodes needs looking at and there over all condition I. E broken , worn , misaligned ect
I have the same problem especially with the center burner, but now am having increasing difficulty with two other burners. Those will eventually stay lit if I depress the knob for 20 - 30 seconds. The center burner will not stay lit, even when keeping the knob depressed for 2 - 3 minutes!
Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
If you have replaced the spark module with the new, blue PA020041 Tytronics 0+4 spark module, the physical positions of the leads that go to the burner igniters are reversed compared to the positions on the old, white module. Make sure that the switch wire for the burner and the position of the spark wire both go to the same burner! The positions are marked on the white label with green lettering.
Presuming the flame is touching the thermocouple, try putting slightly more pressure on the knob and hold for a few seconds longer. If this doesn't work try going through the same process with the knob removed - if this works you need to put a small piece of packing in the shaft of the knob ( a small piece paper might do). If this fails you need a new thermocouple.