Protection Circuit When I crank low bass with this amp it cuts off for about 15 to 20 seconds then cuts back on. The amp sounds great with the 2 12" cadence mallets untill the amp cuts off. My ground wire is connected to a part of the car that still has paint on it , should a sand the paint off? I dont know how many ohms the speakers are so they might need to be rewired.

I classify this as a sleeper of the car audio industry. it is powerful, well built, cheap, feature laden, sounds great! very comparible to the big names such as kicker, alpine, fosgate an all the rest. i would prefer this amp over any of them any day of the week! here are the specs for it incase u didn't have them.

• Max. Power Output: 800W x2Ch.= 1600W @2 Ohms
• Power Output:
  • 330W x 2Ch.(@2 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
  • 220W x 2Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.3%THD
  • Bridge: 660W x 1 Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
• All Measurements Done @ 14.4V DC, 1 KHz Input Signal.
• Dual VU-Meter
• Dual Fan Cooling System.
• LPF (Low Pass Filter) Variable 30Hz-250Hz
• HPF(High Pass Filter) Variable 50Hz-l KHz.
• Slope Adjustable 12-24dB.
• Variable Bass Frequency(30Hz-120Hz).
• Variable 0-18db Bass Boost.
• High & Low Adjustable Level Input.
• Dual LED Indicated Power Status (Protect/Power).
• Mosfet DC-DC Switching Power Supply.
• Built-in Protection Against Short Circuit, High Temperature & Overload.
• Auto Power On/Oft By Remote (+12V).
• Dimensions(mm) : 300(W) x 57(H) x 697(L)

sounds like ur gains are set to high and is going into protect mode

also what ive seen happen before is the speakers (if mounted in metal shelf or door and arnt bolted down correctly can flex under bass notes and flex the speaker that much the termanls short onto the metal and amp hits protect mode
(rare but worth a look if you think u have elimanted most other things Had a dude come to me when i was working in sydney with this problem )

also could be things like clipping protection , overheat protection ,amp drawing to much current from the alternator

do your lights dim when you hit the bass notes ?

get back to me and im sure we could solve this problem

I don't think either, I believe your running theamp load too low with too low an ohm speakers and this cases the amp to produce more power but not stable and it overheats and the thermal protection cuts the amp off when the temp gets too hot to prevent damage.. Make sure your speakers depending on how they are wired do not exceed the amps load rating

The woofer would only blow if it was overloaded with too much signal. The common cause of this connecting a speaker of lower power than the amp or ohms than it. The simple way to cut out rumble is at the amp by reducing the bass, however most amps will cut all the bass and not what you want. Another way is a filter designed to cutt bass or low sounds. However your best bet is to use a Graphic Equalizer to control the tone, most have a 31khz control which will cutt the rumble you describe, but keep the wanted bass sound.

you may be running 2 low of ohm load

Are you sure you don't have any shorted wiring or defective speakers?

Had a similar problem, mine was a power problem.
Power meaning voltage.
Those big bass speakers draw lots of power. My original alternator couldn't keep up.

Question: Do your headlights dim in rhythm to the bass hits?

If so, your sound system wants more power than your vehicle is producing.

My first solution was a high output alternator. It worked great.

Then I added another amp. Not great anymore.

My second solution was to tie in a large capacitor to the amps power supply. (These a big (1 farad), about the size of a Pringles can)

Your amps power consumption is not uniform. Each time your amp punches the bass, it draws extra power. If that power isn't available, it starves and shuts down (if only for a second) then restarts.

The higher the gain, especially using a low pass filter, the more power needed for each thump. Thats why when you turn the bass down, you can get higher volume from the rest of the system.

How a capacitor can help (simply put):
In this application, the capacitor acts like an auxiliary battery, smoothing out power fluxuations. The capacitor builds up its charge literally between bass hits when power demand is low. Then releases it's charge when the demand is high. Think of it as an on-demand power boost.

Hope this helped

Mike

First change the wire,and disconnect the subwoofers to check if the amplifier turn on without going in to protection mode,if the amplifier go to protection mode you gotta change the Audio amplifiers IC's because they are in short circuit.And if don't go in to protection put one speaker at a time to check if one of them are damaged.Good luck.

HI Subicbay,

ADjust your Gain setting to limit just enough so the amp does not go into Protect mode. Turn your Gain all the way down, then crank up the bass from your system. GRadually turn up the gain until you trip on protect. Turn the gain back a notch and your set for no more protect.