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Cannot properly align Saeco Italia Coffee Dispenser

The drive hub on my "new-to-me" Italia does not properly mesh with the dispenser axle splines. I downloaded the manual and there is no mention of this problem.

I observed the power-on cycle with door open ( all interlocks pinned shut and dispenser, tray, grounds cup removed) and the drive hub always stops in the same orientation but the drive hub teeth do not mesh with the dispenser axle splines and the dispenser will not re-insert.

The drive hub consistently stops with its two large "teeth" positioned between 12:00 to 6:00. Aligning the dispenser so that the two arrows align at 'N' puts the corresponding dispenser splines at 8:00 to 2:00.

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  • robineml Jul 02, 2008

    I cannot align the coffee dispenser with the hub inside the machine

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I have the Saeco Vienna, and have had the same problem. The brew group assy is out of position. This is the part that receives the ground beans, and then presses it tight against the strainer. You will need to turn the mechinism in the brew group to the home position, or to the position to receive the ground coffee. I hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

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New to you what make that turn is 2 plastic gear inside maybe gear are loose and jump maybe that why it doent aling to check that out you need to open like everything a big job but if you whant a saeco coffee and belive me it worth it cheers

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

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How do you pull a 1979 gmc jimmy 4x4 rear right axle


QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.

Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)



see this vdio

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Front end grinding


The end of the drive axle that goes into the diff is in splined into the side gear of the diff and will be dry as there would be no way to stop the oil coming out of the diff past the splines. The diff seal runs on the outside of the side gear and seals the oil in the diff. The drive axle slides in and out of the splined section to compensate for the changing lengths of the axle on turns. Grease on the splines would be a big help as it would allow the splines to move when under drive load.. Check the hub bearings for condition and adjustment and check the hub itself for wear indicators.

Dec 14, 2013 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Ford f250 new 4x4 hub will not slide on to axle


Been looking at your problem for awhile trying to figure it out. Count the number of spline teeth and see if they match grooves and count them.

Would say to try BOTH old hubs to see if Both slide on passenger side. May be oddball on passenger side and using both old hubs to test would reveal a difference. If both old hubs fit the passenger side, the answer is the remaining new hub is a bad casting.

Sometimes you get a rust buildup and you need to use Emery cloth to clean the old spline surface just as spindles can sometimes require polishing to accept new bearings. Your new spline parts are crisp and they may be trying to mesh with worn rounded edges.

There may be a problem with the shaft length if any retaining clip or washer were mispositioned and it would show up with the shaft being too short for the hub to slide into place.

Please rate my info.

Jan 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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Front ceal is leaking


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Fig. Fig. 9: Removing the ball joint to steering knuckle clamp bolt


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Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the retaining bolt and remove the speedometer pinion from the transaxle assembly


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Fig. Fig. 11: Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle and arm


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Fig. Fig. 12: Separate the outer CV-joint splines from the knuckle hub by holding the CV-housing and pushing the knuckle out


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Fig. Fig. 13: Support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-housing to free the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 14: Separating the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the assembly from the transaxle


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Fig. Fig. 16: Removing the seal from the housing using a suitable prying tool

  1. Remove the cotter pin, lockwasher and spring washer from the front axle ends.
  2. Have a helper apply the service brakes and loosen the front axle hub retaining nut.
  3. Raise and support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.
  4. Remove the hub nut, washer and wheel assembly. Drain transaxle fluid.

The speedometer drive pinion must be removed from the transaxle housing before the right side drive axle can be removed. Remove the retaining bolts and lift the pinion with cable connected from the housing.
  1. Remove the clamp bolt that secures the ball joint stud with the steering knuckle.
  2. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle by prying downward against the knuckle connecting point and the control arm. Take care not to damage the rubber boot.
  3. Separate the outer CV-joint (Constant Velocity) splines from the steering knuckle hub by holding the CV housing and pushing the knuckle out and away. If resistance is encountered, use a brass drift and hammer to gently tap the outer hub end of the axle. Do not pry on the outer wear sleeve of the CV-joint.
  4. After the outboard end of the drive axle has been removed from the steering knuckle, support the assembly and pull outward on the inner CV-joint housing to remove the assembly from the transaxle.


WARNING Do not pull on the shaft or the assembly will disconnect. Pull only on the inner CV-joint housing.
  1. Remove the halfshaft from under the vehicle and service as necessary.

To install:
  1. When installing the halfshaft, hold the inner joint assembly by its housing, align and guide the shaft into the transaxle or intermediate shaft assembly.
  2. Lubricate the outer wear sleeve and seal with multi-purpose grease. Push the steering knuckle outward and install the splined outer shaft into the drive hub.
  3. Install the steering knuckle assembly. Tighten the ball joint clamp bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Tighten the hub nut (splined shaft nut) to 180 ft. lbs. (250 Nm). Refill the transaxle with the proper lubrication fluid.

If after installing the axle assembly, the inboard boot appears collapsed, vent the boot by inserting a thin round rod between the boot and the shaft. Massage the boot until is expands. Install a new clamp to prevent dirt from entering the boot.

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I cant get the front hub assembly off my 03 buick rendevous


Items/Tools needed:

35mm or 1 3/8" axle socket
3/4 or 19mm socket for lug nuts or lug wrench
15mm socket for brake caliper and bracket
13mm socket for wheel bearing bolts (extentions as well)
Breaker bar or impact wrench to remove lug nuts and axle nut (Note: Do not use impact driver to install axle nut).
Torque wrench for axle nut
Hub puller - Optional
Hammer

Directions

1. Jack the appropriate side of the car up. Make sure the rear wheels are blocked and/or set the parking brake. Use a jackstand to support vehicle at subframe for safety.
2. Remove wheel.
3. Remove brake caliper and bracket.
4. Remove rotor.
5. Using 35mm axle socket, remove axle nut, turn counterclockwise. You will either need an impact or a long breaker bar. They are installed with a lot of torque or may be rusted out or corrroded.
6. Push the axle back as far as possible. It won't come all the way out or through the hub, but will become loose. You can either get a tool that will push it out like a hub puller, or just use a hammer making sure not to hit the axle shaft threads and damage them. Put the axle nut back on the axle shaft so it is flush with the top. Then place 35mm axle nut socket on the axle nut and tap on the 35mm socket with the hammer not the threads on the axle shaft spline.
7. Disconnect the wheel sensor connector and then remove hub side connector from the bracket (unclip).
8. Take a 13mm socket with extensions as needed and remove the 3 bolts on the backside of the bearing around the axle. Be sure to use PBBlaster to help loosen the bolts.
9. The hub/bearing should come loose without need needing a hub puller. Be sure to note the sheet metal spacer between the hub and spindle with also has the bracket for the wheel sensor connector.
10. Double check both parts (hubs) to make sure they match.
11. Lube the axle shaft splines with good quality bearing grease before installing the hub. Clean off any old grease and crud first.
12. Install the hub assembly with the wires from the bearing at the bottom. Line up hub splines with axle shaft splines and push in on hub. Note: Don't forget that sheet metal plate between the spindle and wheel bearing. Note: Make sure the wheel sensor wires don't get pinched by the axle shaft.
13. Install the 3 13mm bolts to 96ft lbs. Service manual recommends replacing with new ones. Some hubs like AC Delco will come with new bolts which have threadlocker.
14. Install the axle nut. As tightened down it will pull the driveshaft the rest of the way in. Torque axle nut to GM specs of 159 ft-lbs or the figure specified by the hub manufacturer. It is recommended to use a new axle nut but not necessary.
15. Install the rotor, brackets and caliper. Torque caliper bracket bolts to 137 ft-lb and caliper pin bolts to 63 ft-lb.
16. Install the connector to the sheet metal bracket and reconnect both connectors.
17. Install the wheel. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern at 100 ft-lbs each.
18. Road test car and ensure any ABS and TRAC OFF light are off.

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Front drive shaft not fully engaged in 4WD, with truck on stands all 4 wheels do rotate but if i stop front wheels the front drive shaft is not engaged


Hi,
Do you have auto locking hubs on the front wheels, or manual locking hubs?
If you have auto locking hubs chances are they are not engaging properly and will need to be removed and spline sets checked for broken teeth on locking hub and locking shaft.
If you have manual locking hubs then check that they are firm when turning to engage them in the lock position.If they are light when engaging them to the lock position then they my have broken/worn out the locking hub and spline. Also check that the engaging spring inside the hub has enough tension to engage the hubs they may be broken. If the hub are all ok then you have a problem in the transfer box, where the 4WD lever is not meshing the transfer box properly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.

Jason

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1 Answer

How do i fix a driveshaft on a 1995 vw golf


take off the wheel.
remove the nut at the end of the axle.36mm socket or so.
on the lower control arm there is a castle nut with a cotter pin.take out the pin and remove the castle nut.
then with a pry bar,put pressure on the lower control arm so the ball joint is free out of the lower control arm. pull on and swing away the hub assembly until it clears the spline from the outer axle.swing the hub out of the way so the axle can be pulled out of the transmission.
tie it out of the way with a tie down cord.
using a prybar,separate the inner axle knuckle from the transmission.
there is a spring on the end of the inner spline,some are quite tight on there.
remove the axle.

installation is reverse of the above.
first the shaft is put into the transmission, then you will have to hammer it in until it "sets". use a soft material like wood on the end of the axle .do not hit the spline directly with a hammer,it will damage the splines!
make sure not to damage the transmission seal where the drive shaft goes into.you will lose a little transmission fluid and will have to top it up.once the shaft is installed,turn it and make sure it meshes proper inside the transmission. then move the hub into place over the driveshaft.tighten the axle shaft to vw torque spec.
install the lower ball joint into the control arm and tighten the castle nut to vw torque spec.and install a new cotter pin.
install the wheel nuts and torque to spec.
alot of heroes out there use a straight impact gun and that can bend rims,rotors and cause other problems.TORQUE them.they are 80lb ft for a reason, not 300 lb/ft like an air gun.a torque extension bar is perfect and an 80 lb stick is about 20 dollars.
it takes a special stick to measure the vw tranny fluid if it is an automatic.a dealer will be able to check it unless you want the vw special tool for that.
tools needed will be an impact gun,axle nut socket,torque wrench,socket set with 1/2 inch drive,36"pry bar,jack stands,and a trouble light .
it takes about half an hour to do if you do alot of them.
go slow do it right and it may take a couple hours,but you will feel good about it.

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Need to be pressed off Take whole assembly off and press hub out of bearing Crack retaining ring behind bearing with a cold chisel Press hub back on to new bearing

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The autolocking hubs are vacuum operated.. Check the small hoses at the back of the hubs for cracks or a broken off fitting.

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