Question about Pioneer GM-X962 Car Audio Amplifier

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Wiring my subs to my alpine mrv-1000

I want to wire 2 infinity reference series subs to my alpine mrv 1000 amp. i want to connect them to bridge them to get them to hit much harder. but when i do this the amp shuts off and over heats? i have 5 gauge power wire. 5 gauge ground wire about a foot and half long. what can i do to fix this?

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  • haedyn schaumkell
    haedyn schaumkell Feb 19, 2014

    you may have your gain turned up to much i had this problem i rectified the problem by turning the gain down 0.5v and found that the amp wasnt turning off to get the most out of your amp google the specs up and youll be right mate

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It is simple. The MRV1000 can be bridged but only to a 4 ohm load. I am assuming your subs are 4 ohms and run fine stereo, but if you bridge them it will show a 2 ohm load bridged to the amp which means 1 ohm per side. The amp is not stable at the impedance. Get 2 ohm/8 ohm subs or "Dual 4 ohm voice coil" Subs and it will crank fine. 

Posted on Apr 10, 2008

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Did you read your instruction manual. does it says "it could be bridged to other amp"?. you can't make a bridge to amplifier that is not bridgeable. bridging an amp is a way which it is made through transistor type ampilfier by bridging more transistor inside and more voltage is required for bridging.
I don't know if we could do to an IC type amplifier. ask an experts about bridging IC types how to bridge maybe they know how.
and if you had an successful bridging, you may have a problem through your speakers, they may hit hard but you will experience some errors through your speakers and easy to worn.

Posted on Jan 26, 2008

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Battery Lead (Sold Separately)
Be sure to add a 80 amp fuse as close as possible
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That amplifier is not 2 ohm mono stable in bridged mode (assuming subs are SVC 4ohm).
It is seeing too much resistance and overheating. Thermal overload protection kicking in.

The phase switch allows you to switch from in phase to 180* out of phase. This feature is not to taken as written in stone. In some rooms, or locations of a room, the output will sound louder/better either in phase or out of phase. So there is no correct setting. It all depends where the sub is located and the acoustics or shape of the room.

Phase is term that describes multiple characteriscs and behavior of a speaker system.

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Crossover phasing: If one or more crossover slopes are of a different slope, then the speakers would not fire at the same time, causing delays in response.

Reverse polarity: You may reverse the polarity of a speaker to make the speaker fire inwards instead of outwards to improve alignment with the other speakers in the system. This is very common in tweeters circuitry. As for woofers, if the polarity is reversed, there is usually a cancellation of bass, to a degree.

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If you are not using a capacitor at this point, i would recommend getting a 1 or 1.5 farad cap and adding it to the system to take some of the strain off of your electrical system.

next on the agenda is your speaker wiring, the mrv-1507 runs around 900 watts at 4 ohms bridged.. your speakers (I believe) have dual voice coils, so 4 connections total, if you are running 2 of the speakers this will be 8 connections total, in order to match the impedance of the amp you will have to wire the speakers in series/parallel. if you have never done this before, it is easy and will ensure you are running the set at 4 ohms (which will make a huge difference in and of itself).

take both speakers out, you are going to want to wire the positive from one coil to the negative of the other on the same speaker. do this to both of them, this should leave you with one positive and one negative unused on each speaker. now you want to hook both of your free negatives together and run it to the negative on your amp, then repeat the process with the positives.

this is going parallel (4 ohm / 2 coils = 2ohm) and series (2ohm x 2 bridged coils = 4ohm).

now your rms on the speakers is 500 watts each, so matching them to a 900 watt or so amp should work great.

when you are installing the wire, make sure the gauge is correct for the length of run and for the wattage, also connect your power directly to the battery or to a distribution block that is capable of handling the power. in all of my installations i run 0 gauge wire from the battery to a distributor block i mount on the firewall, then i run anywhere from 2 to 6 gauge wire to the amp depending on the wattage and run length.

for your purposes, if the length of wire from the battery to the amplifier is 13 feet or less, 4 gauge wire should be fine, if it is between 13 and 20 feet, i would consider buying 2 gauge wire for the install.

you didn't mention what size your fuse is, but i am going to assume it is 90-100 amp, for a 1000 watt amp i use a 150 amp fuse. if you can find a 130 amp fuse it should work fine.

a major thing to remember when installing an amplifier is that your vehicle's charging system was never meant to accommodate large loads for an extended period of time. connecting direct to the battery, using a stiffening capacitor, and properly matching impedance will go a long way towards helping to overcome the limitations. in the future, if you decide to go all out on this project, i would recommend getting a high output alternator, a battery isolator, and a deep cycle battery for the audio equipment. this will insure that you never kill your primary battery, and that you won't run into issues down the road with your vehicle electronics.

i hope this helps you out, if youhave any further questions, feel free to ask.

trin

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