Dryer burning smell

its still running very hot on top and got this very strange burning smell form it its still running very hot on top and got this very strange burning smell form it

Not that Lint is not a cause of a burning smell, but when the nose detects too hot of a heat, that is a different smell. Pay attention to the ability to check all of the electrical components connected to the heat element chamber as well as the blower chamber. When elements overheat and will not cycle on an off, the most likely problem is the "Cycling Thermostat". You can check this with an Ohm Meter or a Digital Multimeter set on the lowest ohm setting available on your meter. The two outside terminals that have the larger wires generally red colored can be tested for continuity. The key to the two inner terminals with the smaller wires on them goes to the internal heater inside the cycling thermostat. There will be writing stamped into the outside of the flange on the Cycling Thermostat. Generally in the form of "150-25F". Mark all wires before removing the Cycling Thermostat so proper reconnecting placement will be correct. Then check for continuity between the two outmost terminals. If you have no continuity, replace it. If there is continuity, place the device on an electric skillet and set the temp about 25 degrees above the marked temp on the device. If it says 150-25F for example set the skillet temp to 175 degrees with the cycling thermostat on the skillet and observe if the continuity opens above the 150 degree limit. If it does not open, replace the Cycling Thermostat. The two inner terminals again is only for the internal heater inside the Cycling Thermostat. This is the device that controls when your dryer heating element shuts off and they cycles back on after the temp drops so the dryer element does not stay on on the heat setting you have selected on the front of the dryer, such as Low, Medium, High, etc. Any of the limit thermostats can be checked in the same way, but they only have 2 terminals and are located in the heating element duct. There will be a number stamped into the flange of the high limit thermostat such as the upper most device near the top of the heating element cavity that shuts off the heating element if the temp rises above the number on the flange for the temperature rating of the upper limit thermostat (2 wire device). Again an electric skillet can be used and set 25 degrees above the rated temperature and the continuity should open above the rated temp on the ouside of the flange. The temp of the upper limit kick out is approximately 250 degrees F. Then there is the Thermal Fuse that once opens, it is toast and must be replaced if there is no continuity through the generally white colored device. The Thermal Fuse burns out about 300 degrees F to stop a fire from happening. If the fuse is good, at room temperature there will be continuity through the Thermal Fuse, a 2 wire device. I found nice videos and how to check the devices on thehttp://applianceassistant.com. Not all videos are clearly accessible and require clicking around to find them. It does not get any clearer than the full descriptions on this site which always shows you how to use both an analog and a digital meter to check them. The first step is to thoroughly clean your dryer ducts first, then troubleshoot for defective components. This web site has the how-to videos to show you how to take apart and reassemble the ducting you need to clean. By ducting, I am not referring just to the outside vent pipe, but internal underneath the back cover of the dryer. A home vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment works real nice for cleaning the internal ducts after you remove them. Only a few screws holds them in place, so it is not that hard to do. My dryer I have overheat problems with is a Whirlpool model LEQ7030KQ1. Never attempt to check any of the dryer components with the dryer plugged into the wall outlet! The observation of the heating element can be done through a hole in the top of the heater element duct with the back off, but stay away from the electrical contacts! You can check for proper operation visually this way through that hole and changing from a low heat setting and stepping up through the upper heat settings. Then unplug the dryer from the wall before trying to replace the rear dryer cover! Not that Lint is not a cause of a burning smell, but when the nose detects too hot of a heat, that is a different smell. Pay attention to the ability to check all of the electrical components connected to the heat element chamber as well as the blower chamber. When elements overheat and will not cycle on an off, the most likely problem is the "Cycling Thermostat". You can check this with an Ohm Meter or a Digital Multimeter set on the lowest ohm setting available on your meter. The two outside terminals that have the larger wires generally red colored can be tested for continuity. The key to the two inner terminals with the smaller wires on them goes to the internal heater inside the cycling thermostat. There will be writing stamped into the outside of the flange on the Cycling Thermostat. Generally in the form of "150-25F". Mark all wires before removing the Cycling Thermostat so proper reconnecting placement will be correct. Then check for continuity between the two outmost terminals. If you have no continuity, replace it. If there is continuity, place the device on an electric skillet and set the temp about 25 degrees above the marked temp on the device. If it says 150-25F for example set the skillet temp to 175 degrees with the cycling thermostat on the skillet and observe if the continuity opens above the 150 degree limit. If it does not open, replace the Cycling Thermostat. The two inner terminals again is only for the internal heater inside the Cycling Thermostat. This is the device that controls when your dryer heating element shuts off and they cycles back on after the temp drops so the dryer element does not stay on on the heat setting you have selected on the front of the dryer, such as Low, Medium, High, etc. Any of the limit thermostats can be checked in the same way, but they only have 2 terminals and are located in the heating element duct. There will be a number stamped into the flange of the high limit thermostat such as the upper most device near the top of the heating element cavity that shuts off the heating element if the temp rises above the number on the flange for the temperature rating of the upper limit thermostat (2 wire device). Again an electric skillet can be used and set 25 degrees above the rated temperature and the continuity should open above the rated temp on the ouside of the flange. The temp of the upper limit kick out is approximately 250 degrees F. Then there is the Thermal Fuse that once opens, it is toast and must be replaced if there is no continuity through the generally white colored device. The Thermal Fuse burns out about 300 degrees F to stop a fire from happening. If the fuse is good, at room temperature there will be continuity through the Thermal Fuse, a 2 wire device. I found nice videos and how to check the devices on the http://applianceassistant.com. Not all videos are clearly accessible and require clicking around to find them. It does not get any clearer than the full descriptions on this site which always shows you how to use both an analog and a digital meter to check them. The first step is to thoroughly clean your dryer ducts first, then troubleshoot for defective components. This web site has the how-to videos to show you how to take apart and reassemble the ducting you need to clean. By ducting, I am not referring just to the outside vent pipe, but internal underneath the back cover of the dryer. A home vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment works real nice for cleaning the internal ducts after you remove them. Only a few screws holds them in place, so it is not that hard to do. My dryer I have overheat problems with is a Whirlpool model LEQ7030KQ1. Never attempt to check any of the dryer components with the dryer plugged into the wall outlet! The observation of the heating element can be done through a hole in the top of the heater element duct with the back off, but stay away from the electrical contacts! You can check for proper operation visually this way through that hole and changing from a low heat setting and stepping up through the upper heat settings. Then unplug the dryer from the wall before trying to replace the rear dryer cover!