ON A CALL FOR HEAT, REVERSING VALVE ENERGIZES, BUT THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT START(BUT IT DOES IN COOLING MODE), TRACING W1 WIRES TO A ''CAP'' ON THE SCHEMATIC, BUT I LOSE IT THERE. I NEED A MORE DETAILED SCHEMATIC.THX.

You may need to set the thermostat to energize or de-energize the reversing valve. Essentially you possibly have it in heat mode. Or you wired it to energize emergency heat strips.

Most reversing valves energize in cool. Turn t stat to cool, check for 24 volts on orange/w1/reversing valve. If yes, check for 24 on valve itself. If yes and still no cool valve likely stuck

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Hi, on all heat pumps, the reversing valve will be energized in the cooling mode only. The only units that the coil on the valve is energized in the heating mode is a Rheem and Ruud unit, they will default to cooling if they fail, this is crazy but they do it. You say your reversing valve is energized and stays there. I know you don't have a Rheem. If it is energized at the coil, it must be in the cooling mode. If you want it in the heating mode, and it is not switching the sleeve and ball bearing in the valve, it may be the thermostat, a faulty reversing valve 24 volt coil, or the control board at the outdoor unit it self. I wish I knew what season you are in, if you live where it is hot or where its cold right now? For a temp. fix on this, you can de-energize the valve by removing the panel where the compressor is and unplug the coil to the valve and it will switch back the other way if the valve isn't hung up its self. Very easy to unplug this coil, just grasp the black plug if you are sure it is energized, and pull it off of the 2- terminals to remove power to it. Depending on what mode it is in, I am assuming cooling as it is energized in cooling, you can also go to the circuit board and find the o or b terminal, which ever is being used to switch the valve, and take off the wire. This should kill the power to the coil. To find out which part is causing it not to de-energize, you will have to start at the thermostat after you hook all up like it was, and remove the o/orange wire or b/blue wire to see if it kills this coil. If so, the stat is bad. If not, wire it back up and go to the control board. Kill all power to the a/c. You want to take a look at the back side of this board. It is very tight and will have 4-stand off screws to remove. If you need to remove any wires, write the colors and terminals they come off of so you know where they go. This is very important. You just want to peak in behind it to see if you see any hot or burnt spots anywhere. I have seen this over, and over again. If so, this board is the problem. If you are still getting 24 volts to this coil when you are not in the cooling mode, you still have a faulty stat or control board. These are what sends voltage to the reversing valve coil.I would start with the stat as this is the least expensive of the two parts. If you don't feel you can tackle this, don't feel bad as this is something that you must be or have some training in to troubleshoot it. If this coil is energized, unplug it to kill the power to reverse it, so you can temp. fix this. Please keep me posted on this and please rate me as I know you will be kind. I will be checking in with you to see if you called out any one, and I hope that the reversing valve has not froze up on you.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating,

Sound like the change-over valve on the heatpump is not switching. Could be the valve is stuck, or bad. Or the thermostat is bad and will not send voltage, or is sending voltage to your change-over valve.

(Some systems energize the CO valve to cool, while others de-energize the valve).

Usually the color coding for the thermostat wires on a heatpump are orange and yellow. The yellow wire usually energizes the compressor contactor, and the orange wire energizes the changeover valve. Now depending on what your system does in terms of energizing or not energizing the CO valve to invoke heating or cooling mode is not known. You can try jumping across the thermostat to see if the CO valve is working. Or you can even try placing the stat in heating mode and see if you hear that loud "Woosh" when you switch between heating and cooling modes at the stat.

What often happens is the cylinder inside the CO valve gets stuck, especially if the system has sat off for an extended time. By workign the stat from heating to cooling (reversing the porting on the CO valve) will cause the valve to free itself up.

If you cannot hear that woosh as the changeover valve switches between heat and cooling, it is possible the CO valve is bad, or there is an issue in the electrical or control side of your system. Such as a bad base or switching circuit in your stat, or control issues other places.

yes it can be fixed with a reversing valve replacement or you can check if the solnoid on the reversing valve when in heat mode is energized if not then replace

here is some info may help you
coleman = Hunter
g   =  g
y1 =  y1
     =  y2 (second stage you don't have it on your system)
r    =  rc/r (leave the jumper bewteen rc/r)
x   =  c
w1 =  w1
w2 =  w2
a   =  o
     =  b
the "b" terminal is to energized the revensing valve on heat mode
the "o" terminal is to energized the reversing valve on cool mode

your trane heat pump energizes the reversing valve with O - orange y - is to turn on the unit make sure you have your orange wire hooked up and the tstat programming set to heatpump otherwise your reversing valve might be bad

Did you just install this heat pump? If so it sounds like you replace a regular a/c with a heat pump, which will require more wires for the reversing valve. First check to make sure you have 24v going to the condenser. Make sure you have a heat pump t-stat. You should have a orange t-stat wire for your reversing valve. At the t-stat you will have terminals R, Y, G, O, X or C or B, W1, and W2. R is half of your 24v circuit and is a red wire, Y is for cooling mode, G is the Fan green wire, O is for the reversing valve, orange wire, X or C or B is the other half of control circuit blue wire, W1 and W2 is the heat strips in the furnace tan and black wires. These are standard color code but remember electricity does not know colors and an installer may have used different colors. If all of this is correct possibly bad contactor.

I looked at the pdf file page 20 of page 124 for t-stat says for a Y594g1476 to remove the jumper IF W1 is used. I don't know if you have 2nd stage of heat such as electric heat. I would check wiring according to your outdoor unit and indoor unit and the t-stat. At the very least you will need R and it looks like X terminal giving you the 24 volts. for the control circuit. O is for the reversing valve. G for the blower. Y for the compressor contactor. W1 goes to the fan section to operate 2nd stage heat if you have it.You can also remove the t-stat and make sure you have the correct subbase which the PDF file shows for a y594g1476 stat it should be a Q674 series. Also what you can do with the stat off is jump out R to G to O to Y that should bypass the t-stat and bring on the fan and compressor contactor and the reversing valve. ( reversing valve is energized in the cooling mode ) see what happens ,you may have a built in 5 minute timer before it starts.I was unable to find the PDF on your Tempstar. So I am not sure what the outdoor coil temp. sensor is. I know that to initiate a defrost heat pumps use an outdoor sensor strapped on the outdoor coil bend. it usually labeled DFT (defrost thermostat ) but that should only work in the heat mode. Also they may show an OPITIONAL outdoor sensor/stat to stage 2nd stage of heat if using electric heat. But as far as I know that is installed by the contractor and is optional. In closing I would double check the control wiring from the t-stat to the outdoor unit to the fan section. Then I would bypass the t-stat with the method I told you. You can also take it one step at a time R to G blower fan starts .R to O reversing valve energizes. R to Y compressor contactor closes (after 5 minutes).Also the PDF shows an optional outdoor sensor that hooks up to the thermostat. If your handy with a volt meter check that you have 24 volts between R and X terminal at the stat

the thermostat will to any temperature but will not shut off