Dead Board on Amana PTC153A50AD

Maybe something here will help you....

https://ptac4less.com/blog/troubleshoot-reset-amana-ptac/

Check voltage in , there could be one side of breaker burned causing only one side to come through. This happens on older main breakers frequently which messes up whole house.

A bit late to this but here is how I fixed my dishwasher for about $5 which was:
1. Randomly turning off during cycle
2. Not filling with water (I checked the pumps continuity which was good so I ruled that issue out)
3. After running diagnostics it would occasionally run a full cycle after I filled it with water manualy

I pulled out the Main Control Board W10084142, saw that 2 Capacitors (C131 & C132) were bulging at the top (not flat like the others) so I replaced them for about $5 and the dishwasher works great again! [** This does require very basic soldering skills]
They are rated 1000uf at 6.3 volts and I was only getting a reading of about 150uf. Below is a link for about $5 replacements.
1000uF 6 3V 12 6x10mm Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 10 Pcs


How to get to the control board:
1. Disconnect Power Source at breaker panel.
2. Open Dishwasher door and locate the 6 hex screws that are holding in the control panel face on the backside of the dishwasher door. There will be 2 on each side of the latch and 4 (2 on each side) of the edge towards the top.
3. The face panel should pop off with a little bit of tugging
4. You will see a black cover, remove that to expose the control board
5. Ensure you label the cables with tape or something prior to removal, some require a bit of tug-and-play but will come off. For example, I labeled black wire with white stripe with a + and all black with a -. Ensure you label the control board components if you cant remember where the black with white stripe goes and vice-versa.
6. There will be little gray plastic clips holding everything in, locate these and slowly pry away the board from the plastic.

Board adapter defrost sounds like it is bad? hope this helps.

http://shop.amana.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=AMA
try this web site and fill in your model number. See if this will get you your manual on your unit.
Hope this gets it for you.

I believe looking over the service manual that white is the common. and it should be the one to test the keyboard before the keyboard plugs into the control board. If you would like the service manual please let me know because it does show some test to eliminate the origin of the problem, Sea Breeze

Hi there, your printer is experiencing a shortage due to a lose connection that's located on the backside of the control panel. you will have to disassemble and remove this control panel to find this lose connection. this connection seems to be linked to the power board which explains why the screen turns black.

The relays in these units blow, hence the popping noise you heard, disconnect power and remove the electronic control board. Flip it over and look under the relays, you will see burn marks under the one that blew. You can order a new board from Amana for around $130.

We all appear to be in the same mess --Thanx Haier
This product says its Amana, but rest assured it is an Haier
The problem is most likely with the engineering design of the board. Im not an electrical engineer so be careful litning to me to closely :) There is only a half bridge rectifier on this board and 2 zener diodes that clamp down on the voltage. My guess on yours is the Zeners have been shorted and no longer clamping voltage down to aroun 24 volts for the low side of the board. I spoke with Haier and they have no schematics that state the zener specifications. They also said there was a 6 month backorder on ordering a new board. Oh and by the way if you want to order a new board and wait 6 months for the backorder it would cost you 75.00. All this jsut to repeat the problem again, because of bad design. O well ----- I wish products were not made better, so I wouldnt have to fill guilty about putting this in the landfills.

1. copressure not working.
2 check spare parts of a/c.
3 wiring