Question about Maytag PTB2154G Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Refer freezer ices up and tem rises. took of back and it is frozen solid in the upper right corner needd to know if a thermostat, heater coil or something else. maytag PTB2154GR considering replacing both these and anything else needed.

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Most likely the heater is bad. It is located under the evaporator inside the freezer rear wall . Look for a long glass tube about half inch in diameter with a long coil of wire inside. That is the heater . It can be unplugged easily.

Posted on Jan 24, 2008

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I have a Frigidaire FRS26R4CWE both the Freezer (30 degrees) and Refigerator (41 degrees)were not cold enough. This a spare basement refrigerator that we use once in while. There was no ice in the bin....


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

When you removed the freezer you should have seen a even frost pattern across the cooling coils.

If you have ice at the top especially in the upper right have corner, then you either have a restriction or a refrigerant leak. In the upper right hand corner you have a very small tube with a inside diameter the size of a small needle. It is not uncommon on older units for this tube to become plugged up or leak.

A repair of this nature by a service technician would be about $550.00 USD.

Feb 16, 2015 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore upright freezer


Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

I am going to assume your compressor and condenser fan is running. Your condenser fan is in the lower back of your freezer.

You will need to remove the back cover in your freezer. There are 6 screws holding it on.

Check the following (Cover Removed):

1.) Frozen Drain - Your freezer goes into a defrost mode every 8-10 hours, where your freezer shuts down except for the lights, and your defrost heater turns on for about 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling coil. If you have a frozen drain, the condensate builds up behind the back wall and icing the cooling coil, restricting air flow. You must defrost the coil.

2.) Freezer Fan Motor Failure - Having removed the back wall observe if the freezer fan motor is running. If not replace.

3.) Refrigerant Restriction or Leak - If you observe a large build-up of ice in the upper right hand corner, then you have a restriction or leak. The cost of repair would be about $400.00

4.) Bad Thermostat - In the upper right hand corner of you cooling coil, attached is your thermostat. They can explode, where the back of the thermostat will raise up.
22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-0.jpg 22602419-rljzekqxa22lq3uayqx0h0vi-3-3.jpg

You can also check it with a multi-meter, set to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You need to cut the wires, leaving enough wire length to rewire back in. Put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes. After, it should Ohm out around 16. It is reads '0' or infinity it is bad. Below 15 or 16 it is bad

Jan 01, 2014 | Freezers

2 Answers

Not freezing


Hello Jim;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

If you are getting cooling and not freezing your problem is not your overload relay or capacitor, otherwise you would get no cooling at all.

You have one of 4 potential problems.

1.) Frozen Drain - This is a common problem. Your unit goes through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours, everything shuts down for about 20-30 minutes. This is when your defrost heater turns on and defrost your cooling (evaporator) coil. If your drain is frozen, a wall of ice builds up behind your lower back wall. This prevents the cooling fan from running and air flow through the cooling coils.

You need to remove the lower back cover to see what is going on. there are several screws holding it on. First remove the rubber seals on both sides. They just pull out.

If it is a block of ice, use a hair dryer to melt the ice and clear the drain. Do not try to chip away, you will damage the coils.

2.) If you observe the cooling coil fan not running and vibrating, then you need to replace the fan.

not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-0.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 3-60336-001 Cost from Sears: $115.00. You can search the internet and get this part for about $80.00.

3.) Defrost Heater - You may have a bad defrost heater. Observe, is the glass tube black or is the wire inside broken?
not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-2.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 3-80405-003 Cost: $40.00

4.) Refrigerant leak or obstruction - If you observe a block of ice in the upper right hand corner of your cooling coil, then you either have a leak or an obstruction. A repair of this nature with a service company is about $500.00.

5.) Bad Bi-Metl (Thermostat) - In the upper right corner is your cooling coil thermostat.

not-freezing-q5gyx04vmzg44gwribm3t5si-2-5.jpg Part Number: Substitution: 1-81801-001 Cost: $30.00

If you observe the flat back has popped open, then replace.

Sep 12, 2013 | Whirlpool EV181NZTQ Upright Freezer

1 Answer

Whirlpool side by side , the refrig temp is at 49, the freezer will keep food frozen, but will not freeze , not even ice cream


Not sure exactly what the situation is I'm going to give you a detailed overview on how the system works that way you'll be able to isolate the problem. Your machine is a single compressor unit, meaning that even though there are two seperate sides, the freezer and the refridgerator, they do not operate independantly. The sealed system, which is what cools the machine, has two parts, a high side and a low side. The high side is located under the machine and consist of a condensor, for which freon is pressurized back into a liquid and passed throug the compresoor to be released as a gas into the evaperator, the low side. This is where the freon is at a cold state. Ok, now that you have the bare basics of a sealed system, we move forward. The Evaporator is located in the freezer side, behind the freezer wall. As freon goes through the evaporator, a fan, called the evaporator fan, is located above it and circulates air throughout the freezer compartment. Also, an airway connects the freezer to the refridgerator, usually top right of freezer, or top left refridgerator on side by sides and through the freezer floor on top mount models. This means the freezer cools the refridgerator side. ****First check point**** Is the fan running in the freezer? This would cause the freezer not to cool as well but also a rise in the refrigeration side would be noticed. As freon goes throught the evaporator, which is made of aluminum, the temperature levels are well below the freezing point, so frost and ice will form on the coils. Over time, this kind of build up would form a blockage, not letting air be drawn from the bottom of the coils by the fan to circulate the cold air. To prevent this from happening the a defrost heater is installed to thaw the ice away and comes on every 6-8 hours. This is initiated by the defrost timer, or in some machines an adaptive defrost control. The heater will be located at the bottom of the evaporator because hot air rises, getting maximum effect. A third part to the defrost system, the first two being the timer and heater, is a bi-metal,or terminating thermost. Its called this because when the thermostat is cold, the metal inside it constricts making a pathway for electricity to flow through to the defrost heaters so it can get hot, and as the heat rises and the ice melts away, the terminating thermostat will warm up, and the metal will expand causing the path of electricity to be broken, turing the heaters off. This is to prevent any high temperature situation from happening, like melting plastic or even a fire. If any of these parts fail, the machine will nit defrost. ***Checkpoint two***** Do you see any ice build up on the freezer wall. This ice will be completely across the back wall. Most signs of defrost problems are noticed first by a rise in temperature on the refrigerator side first. The above can be assessed with a quick look and listen. If no frost is present and the fan is running you can rule out the above. ****Please not that ice build up on just a small section, for example, upper left or right corner only is not a defrost situation but a sealed system issue, caused from low freon or a restriction in the lines and a EPA certified technician should be called.****** The last thing you should check you'll need to pull the machine away from the wall and remove the lower panel to gain access to the compressor area. What you are checking here is to see if the condensor fan motor is running and that the coils are somewhat clean enough for air to flow across them. The fan draws air from across the compressor and through the coils helping to keep the compressor temperature down and also to evaporate the water that is drain when the machine goes into defrost. Rule of thumb is if the compressor is on the fan should be. If the fan isn't runnning the heat from the compressor will be transferred to the machine and notice first on the freezer more so than the refrigerator. ****checkpoint three**** IS the condensor fan running? Are the coils clean, and can you feel the air from the fan with your hand placed on the opposite side of the coils?
The refrigerator side is usually where your defrost timer, discussed earlier is located. Also on this side is where your temperature control, or controls , are located, These controls are what are called thermostats, and have a direct line to the compressor. This means when the temperature has reached the desired setting the thermostat will kill power to the compressor in the same manner the terminating thermostat does with the defrost heater. Some models have a temperature control thermostat for the freezer and the refrigeratot, but some only for the refrigerator. The most noticeable sign of a thermostat being bad is the food in the refrigerator side will freeze, usually on any setting or the machine won't come on at all, including the fans. Problems are usually noticed on the refrigeratot side first. The last thing to discuss is The freezer and the refrigerator both are rising in temperature, but the fans are running, etc. Normally in cases like this a humming sound followed by click is heard or sometimes just the click. The humming sound is the compressor trying to start but failing and the click is the relay breaking contact. On newer machines, especially ones that fall under the whirlpool umbrella, the compressor relay, also called the start device has failed and needs to be replaced, but also the compressor itself could be bad. Well, thats the basics. I know it's long winded but I wanted to put something that you could print out and use as reference. Good luck.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

May 24, 2012 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

2 Answers

Defrost does not work properly, continues to freeze up element in lower freezer compartment, shutting down cooling in upper refrigeration unit. We continue (bout every two weeks) to take wall unit off and...


i noticed ice build up towards the bottom right corner of the back panel (in freezer)....i diconnected power...took the back panel off .....fan had frost on it....coil was iced up.... then on the back of the refrigerator i accessed the control board....plugged the power back on ...i jumped the line to the heater...heater didnt work....then checked resistance through the heater (checked ok)....

it came down to me replacing the defrost thermostat which is in series with the heater....defrost now works fine ...which is every 60hrs for 45 minutes on mine.

Oct 01, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Side bt side has solid ice build up on coil in back of freezer compartment..heater element bad or something else?


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a

Oct 01, 2009 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

Amana BR18 Doesn't get cold


Mine is doing the same thing

Jul 05, 2009 | Amana Freezers

3 Answers

Freezer frozen solid freezer cool fridge not


HI look for this part in the freezer. its the most common one to fail.replace it

Oct 14, 2008 | GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Kennmore model 253


Unplug the unit, open the freezer door and look through the vents at the bottom of the back wall. With enough light you should see the alluminum coil through the vents. If there is ice/frost in the vents your coils are frozen up. Remove the cover on the inside back wall of the freezer you may need to remove the ice maker as well if you have one it just plugs into the back wall there is also a plug behind the cover to the back upper left corner. Once the cove is out of the way use a hair dryer to defrost the coils or leave the unit unpluged for a while. After all the ice is gone reinstall the cover and turn the unit on it will probably work for 3-10 days and then the process must be repaeted again. I replaced the defrost thermostat on mine 2 weeks ago and all is good so far. The defrost thermostat is a little round device that snaps onto the small copper line in the upper right corner behind back cover it has 2 blue wires and cost's about $20.

Hope this helps

Oct 05, 2008 | Kenmore 18.3 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

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