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we have had this problem many times with our hair clippers
take off the outer blade and make sure it is all clean and there is no hair within the working when rebuilding add a little regular household oil
on the side of the trimmers there is usually a little plastic screw built into the casing this is the motor adjustment turn it until the trimmers become noisy then turn back half a turn so it lowers the noise out put hence the motor speed hopefully this should work
If you have a blown head gasket the only option you have is to replace the head gasket.Also take your oil pan off and clean as much of the gunk as you can out of it.When you take the motor apart you want to make sure that you clean the parts so there free of any grime on both the top end and the bottom end.When you put it back together iI recommend that you run engine flush through the motor to clean any residual sludge.Hopefully this will help clean the oil ports in the bearings of any sludge.I would flush it at least 2 times and then put oil in it.Change the oil after 2000 miles and then change it every 3000 miles.Just remember you must make sure that you clean the motor real good before putting it back together.You could save yourself any future problems by also replacing the connecting rod bearings.
The bearings are bad. No need to keep oiling them. You're going to have to replace the motor. We get a bad one like that too from time to time. Just take your lumps and change it out, Chances are you wont have to deal with it for many many more years to come. Sorry about your bad luck.
Is there a reset switch? Is there an in line fuse? If no to both we have some work to do here and hopefully in an hour have you up and running. Remove the top half of the heater, this exposes the burner tray and fan motor. Try spinning the fan motor by hand, should be free not bound up, use a light oil and oil front and back of fan motor at the bearings. Work the oil in by spinning the motor by hand and spin it until you feel that it is as free as it can spin. Now lets check all the other things I do yearly on mine.With the burner tray removed locate the fuel nozzle and remove it, they say you can not clean these. I say with a q-tip tooth pick and carb cleaner you can with out any damage, so clean it, now in behind the nozzle is a screen assembly these corrode clean it as well.Now put it back together and lets clean the flame sensor, locate it and now clean it with windex and soft terry cloth rag. Put the sensor back together and now reinstall the tray, make sure the sensor has a clear unobstructed view of the flame. At the back of the heater you will see the fuel pump and it has an air filter in it, remove it clean it and dry it real good put it back in. Inspect all fuel lines for holes, cracks, or dry rot. Follow the fuel line down to where it comes thru the tube, now remove the side cover and you will find the line and fuel filter. Remove the line from the filter and using a compressor blow air backwards thru the filter, instantly clean. Put everything back together and try firing it up, it should now work.
The oil pump is in the the oil pan so you will need a new oil pan gasket and some form a gasket as well to put the pan back on, because you will have to take it off, you will see the oil pump a soon as you take the pan off, it will have a tube connecting to the pick up screen and to the block, remove bolts from the block and remove oil pump. be prepared the primming rod will probably come out too. itll need to go back of course, make sure seated in correctly because the primming rod runs off the cam. make sure the surface area for the oil pump gasket is clean before reinstalling new oil pump same goes for oil pan. after everything back together refill oil. It is best to test the oil pump before starting for your engine. the best way to do this is to remove the distrubuter if it has one if it has electronic ignition it will have a cap where the distributer went remove that and you will see the top end of the primming rod, fit appropriate socket on the primming rod and use a battery gun to spin, look inside oil fill cap and make sure you see oil flow or oil pressure on your gage if equiped, CAREFULL!!!!!! make sure the socket on battery gun has no way of falling off, or you will have to remove oil pan again to retrieve it.
Another way to prime pump is to disable igniton main power like remove the coil wire, or main power wire for electronic igniton so you can turn the motor over with out it starting, once again turn it over until you know you have oil pressure with the gage or through oil fill cap. put ignition back together start the car and once again confirm oil pressure. If every thing looks good your done Good luck
Make sure the driving motor (power on) is turning (without the belt attached). Make sure the brush turns freely when the belt is off (it's probably jammed with wound-up hair, thread, and other debris--remove the brush and clean/lightly oil the bearings). Check the tension of the belt which should be fairly firm--replace if sloppy. Rotate the motor shaft by hand when everything is back together and make sure the brush can be driven without the belt trying to jump off. Hope this helps!
Sounds like the pump is jammed or the motor bearings are frozen. If you can take it apart, try the pump first. The bearings on modern motors are pretty reliable. Get everything cleaned and lubed and put it back together. Good luck...Lee