It is the 169 chassis-over 300 different models used it and are different-answer something for me--does it have a GREEN power light that comes on for a second and goes off?
I know this set well and to be honest hated working on them--Let me know about the power light and I will tell you what I know.
At one point in time this was a very good set--I do understand about paying a lot to get it fixed and having it bad again.
I am here to help people and I bet I know more about this set than almost anyone else here.
SD TECH
Ok, there is one common problem these sets have part is #205064.
This set uses a High voltage splitter block--not a real easy part to replace easy and easy to do it wrong.
I will tell you how to find out if it is bad. Remove the front speaker grill--usually a metal tab at the top middle and it will pull out. Behind it is an inspection plate. Do this with the set unplugged! Look for a black rectangular plastic block--it will either be directly behind the inspection plate or to the far left side.
It has 4 large red wires plugged into it and several clip ground wires--some have 3 other black wires also for focus Some versions of this part have a tiny circuit board slid into one end of them. The real problem here is the large red wires have to be inserted carefully and correctly--if someone replaced the block during your last repair and was not careful--they are like spark plug wires with no connector on the end. What happens is the end of each of the wires is stripped and exposes bare wire--when inserted into the tubes for them they have to go perfectly straight--if one folds over during this it will start arching and shorten the life of the block.
Here is how you prove it is bad--like all good things it is simple. Three of the large red wires will each go to one of the three picture tubes this set uses. The number 4 large red wire will go back inside the set to the rear.
You locate the wire that goes to the back of the set--it goes to the high voltage transformer--this part gets about 30 thousand volts from that wire--the block is called a splitter because it accepts this voltage and splits it to each of the three picture tubes.
Unless someone has tossed them each red wire will have sleaves of plastic around them. Locate the one that goes to the back of the set and pull it out---you should have enough slack for the next part.
This part will sound funny but it works--get a glass bottle--soda or other and stick the wire you removed into it--idea here is you are going to try to turn the set on--you need to isolate the end of that wire so it cannot arc to ground etc.
I just usually pull the wire out of the front of the set and place it where it cannot touch metal but you SHOULD NOT TRY THAT--the glass bottle(make sure no liquid is inside it) will isolate it.
WITH THE WIRE SAFELY INSULATED, PLUG THE SET IN AND TURN IT ON--if the splitter is your problem the green light will come on and stay on and you should have sound--you will hear the 30 thousand volts hissing in the bottle--just do it long enough to see the set stays on and has sound.
This part used to retail for over 100 dollars but I know a place on EBAY where you can get it for 20.
If you confirm it is your problem-PLEASE ASK ME AND I WILL GIVE YOU DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS TO REPLACE THIS PART--do not try to remove it from the front of the set...NO TV is worth getting hurt over.
This is the most common problem in your set--let me know if it is or is not your problem.
When these sets were newer I replaced dozens of the splitters in them.
SD TECH
Remember that if you find what I said proves it wait and let me tell you where to buy the part and the most easy way to get at it.
I am here to help.
SD TECH
ON EBAY select advanced search and then to the left search by seller--look for sewsales55, I am almost certain he has it for about 20 dollars.
The best way to replace it is to remove the entire light box from the set--it is fairly easy and I can tell you what to do. The hard part and clearly where whoever went wrong before is getting the wires all the way in without bending them inside the tubes--with the light box removed you can do it and then turn it on with the remote----you listen carefully to make sure none of the wires are arcing or hissing--some of the problem is the replacement blocks are not real well made---do not be amazed if when you pull some of the large red wires free one or more has the bare part at the end crushed and not properly in.
To get the light box out you unplug the set and remove the back cover. You will find usually two metal tabs on the left and right side at the bottom with two screws each--up above you will have to unplug the front keyboard--one or two plugs and also the speaker wires on either side of the box--most of it is idiot proof--The reason to get the box out is it is easier to make sure you get the wires in correctly--you have to carefully slide them into place and make sure they do not pop loose--
With the box out and the splitter replaced you will be able to turn it on and see all three tubes in the black lens with a picture in each---I do it this way because I have seen it not work trying to replace with the box still in the set--consider--if you do it right you will have it up and working for under 30 dollars total.
Let me know how it turns out and if you have questions let me know.
SD TECH
yes, you need to reuse the little board--remove red and black wires on posts(note where they go) push in little tab on edges of board and slide it out.
asking more questions is no problem for me.
SD TECH
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Usually answered in minutes!
The green power light will come on for a second when turning on the power. Or stay on if you hold the power button down.
The green power light will come on for a second when turning on the power. Or stay on if you hold the power button down.
I will try what you have suggested this morning. Thanks for the help and advice!
I will try what you have suggested this morning. Thanks for the help and advice!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Ok, did what you said with the following exception.
There were four big red wires plugged in to the splitter. 3 of the big red wires went to the RGB bulbs, 1 went to the transformer in the back, and the last goes to some other device (not sure what it is). The slots the wires plug into on the splitter block have been labeled with sharpie by the last repair shop so this is apparently the part that went bad last time. They are labeled R, G, B, T (I assume for transformer, this is the one that goes to the back of the set), and F (don?t know what the F is for). The block does have several white wires connected with slip-on connectors and it does have a small circuit board attached.
Anyway, I disconnected the red wire that went to the transformer in the back of the set, put it in a glass bottle (brilliant!) and turned the set on. I do get noise but no picture.
Your help and advise has been greatly appreciated!
Was able to remove the light box and get to the splitter. One last question...
The splitter that you have pointed me to on ebay does not have the small circuit board attached. Do I need to get on that does, or do you use the one that is on the old splitter?
Was able to remove the light box and get to the splitter. One last question...
The splitter that you have pointed me to on ebay does not have the small circuit board attached. Do I need to get on that does, or do you use the one that is on the old splitter?
Was able to remove the light box and get to the splitter. One last question...
The splitter that you have pointed me to on ebay does not have the small circuit board attached. Do I need to get on that does, or do you use the one that is on the old splitter?
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