Question about Pioneer PRO-1009W 57" Rear Projection Television

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Pioneer Pro 1009W Blue Convergence

Blue convergence won't align. Moves up and down but not left or right.

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  • Groaty Jan 21, 2008

    You seem to think the problem is in the power control board, not the convergence module. Before I try your solution I want to make sure you want me working on the power board. For some reason I want to think the problem is in the convergence module.

  • Groaty Jan 22, 2008

    The response received indicates I'm trying to get rid of a "flicker". There is no flicker, just no adjustment of the blue convergence. All other function of the TV work great. The reply also indicates the board I'm to remove is a vertical board on the right rear. My power board is horizontal in the right rear.
    My problem is the blue convergence will not move left or right when I try to use the remote to align the convergence. The red convergence works fine and is aligned. But the blue convergence is off by 1-2" to the right of the cross and will not move when I use the remote. It will move up and down.
    If two or more of you pros agree the problem is in the power control board, I'll remove it and resolder. But it seems to a novice person, such as I, that the problem is in the convergence circuity, not the power.

  • Groaty Jan 22, 2008

    No servo or motor. Also, the remote accesses the convergence menu, from there you must adjust each viewing mode of the TV. As I stated earlier, everything and I mean everything works just great except the left right adjustment of the blue convergence.



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I know this seems simple but have you tryed using the controls on the front of the TV to control the alignment? Also there has to be some sort of servo or motor that controls the alignment if each color. Its possible that it might be that and not the controller.. just taking a shot in the dark.. good luck.

Posted on Jan 22, 2008

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Turn off main power switch, wait a few minutes and UNPLUG SET. Wait several minutes to completely drain high voltages. The power supply board is large vertical board in the back on the right side, AC cord goes to it.

There is an RF coil near the connectors at upper left, be careful not to squash it with your thumb when disconnecting wire harnesses. (oops....) After removing all those screws, handle board with two hands, as it flexes quite easily. For some reason the actual PC board is very thin, in relation to the weight of the components. Try not to flex it too much, or it may cause more broken solder points. Rest the board on blocks of wood when working on it.

Use an 8x magnifying loupe (available at photographic supply houses) or glass to inspect solder joints, as you will not be able to see breaks with the naked eye or reading glasses. A cold solder joint can be described as being dull gray and/or pebbly in appearance, sometimes accompanied with a "fracture ring" around it. Found quite a few on my board. Gently wiggle the component on the other side to see if the actual joint wiggles as well. if it does, re-solder it.

As I suspected, there were broken solder joints on connector E3 (12+ supply and a GND) and the joints for and around IC204 and IC202 looked "cold" with possible ring fractures. It's amazing how little solder was used on these joints, especially the connectors. (shame on Pioneer's QC...)


This section assumes that you have had previous soldering experience, such as an electronics hobby kit, repairing something on a circuit board, etc. Again, if you are not comfortable doing this, have someone who knows how do it for you.

Work on the board in a well-lit area, such as a workshop. (a dinette set with chandelier lighting just doesn't work!) A desk lamp for additional lighting helps. Prop the board up to prevent flexing. I suggest using a magnifying headset such as an OptiVisor (available online or dedicated tool supply shops) to see what you're doing while soldering, some of these joints are quite small.

Use an AC-powered 30-40 watt soldering iron with a fine tip. Cordless units, such as a Wahl, are okay, but pressing the "on" button gets tedious after awhile, and because of the wait time for heat-up, may not be consistent. Do not use a high-wattage soldering gun, the trick is to solder the joints, not vaporize them... I used a Weller soldering station set on "4" with good results. The iron must be hot, meaning that the solder liquifies instantaneously on contact. Also used fine 60/40 rosin core solder, for PC work. Clean the tip on the iron frequently, using a wet sponge.

It's your choice if you decide to re-solder all the joints on the board, I only did the questionable ones. On the connector pins, however, I desoldered these with a vacumn pump and re-soldered them. I did ALL the connector pins just to be safe. Re-flowing solder on the other components should be sufficient, just do it quickly to prevent over-heating of the actual component. You can also use clip-on heat sinks on the component leads, if you can reach them. (the board heat sinks sometimes get in the way)

When you're finished, inspect your work - look for free-floating solder "blurbs", and make sure you didn't solder two joints together accidentally. Re-install the board, and hopefully, the flicker is gone for good.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008


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When its out of alignment the video will look 3-D, wavy, distorted, etc. Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired. Convergence problems are very common on all Projection TV sets including Sony,Samsung,JVC,Philip Magnavox,Panasonic,Akai,Pioneer Hitachi,Mitsubishi,Zenith and others.
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Your set may have one or more of the following symptoms....

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You can see some more examples and find a fix herebb0cf99.png

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