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Blower opperation on gas furnace

I have a model 58GP100JA the control board PT# HH84AA020 has just been changed for the second time. The A/C side of the unit work fine but when changed over to heat the burner will come on but the blower will not. When it appears that the high limit breaks the gas valve then the blower will come on. When the blower quits the burner will come back on. On the insert that comes with the control board it mentiones a jumper between Gas 1 and Gas 3 on the original board that needs to be placed back on the replacement board. There was no jumper on the board that I changed out so there is also no jumper on the new board. Would this jumper correct my problem.

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How long does the burner stay on before the limit takes it out. The board has a delay for the fan in heat and it may be to long. If your unit had cycled on high limit to much it may have a bad limit switch. The limit is so low it cuts out before the fan has a chance to come on. See on the board if has an adjustable time deley. Should 30 60 90 set to thirty. Keep in touch rus

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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I have a Bryant gas furnace model 394GAZ036125. After a heating cycle, blower motor shuts off, then cycles 2 times for approximately 2 seconds each cycle. What could be wrong ?


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What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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Fan purge for 30-45 seconds. During this time, a pressure switch is actuated by the running of the purge fan, proving the control board the purge fan is running.

After purge and purge prove, the hot surface ignition and or spark begins. After a few second delay, the gas valve will open. The control board then monitors for flame prove through another sensor located near the burners. If there is no flame within 3-5 seconds, the gas valve closes. It will repeat this process, usually 3 times, before it shuts the system down, which requires a power down of the system to reset.

I have seen trash get into the hose between the purge blower and the purge switch. But you could be having other problems.

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If in fact you have the above listed furnace, you do not have a pilot but electronic ignition. You will need to remove the front cover on the furnace, tape down the door safety switch and then have someone help you by turning up your thermostat to a very high setting. Watch and listen inside the furnace. There should be some blinking going on at the control board followed by a small blower fan starting up. Then after 10-15 seconds there should be a click followed by an orange glow viewed thru the viewing window to the burner section. In a few seconds the gas valve should click and the burners will ignite. There is a safety switch that will sense flame and then keep the gas going to the burners. If it does not sense it, it will shut it off within 10 seconds. If all is well so far, your blower will turn on in about 90 seconds after flame. There is a diagnostic code chart on the back side of the access door if you get an error code (blinking) on the control board.

Always check little things like air filter, condensate drain and broken or loose wires.

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