Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range

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Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

My Frigidaire range/oven had been working perfectly when suddenly the oven would no longer heat up. The display still comes on and operates normally but the oven won't heat up. A few weeks later the range elements stopped heating up as well. What should I check first?

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  • Anonymous Feb 13, 2008

    I have a 'frigidaire Electric range self cleaning ceramic cook top my problem is the same . The stove top work , the light comes for the oven and also the convection oven sounds as if its on ( I guess its the fan I here). It started when I went to turn on the stove top it worked and then turned on oven to heat up I heard a small pop the top was no longer on I checked my breaker it had shortered it out and in side the oven a small wire was burt into. My elements are still good I had them checked but I still have no oven.HELP

  • Anonymous Feb 19, 2008

    I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY STOVE LIGHT ARE FIND BUT THE TOP OR THE OVEN DONT WORK

    I PAID ALOT OF MONEY FOR THIS, WHAT IS GOING ON

  • Anonymous Feb 29, 2008

    I have a Frigidaire smooth top range. The oven quit heating. the burners work fine. This is a very expensive item. i should have save my money. It is just 2yrs. old

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2008

    The clock and all itams went out on range and oven will not go on at all.

    burners work but slow to show the light on the stove that one of the burners could be still giving off heat.

  • velomama May 04, 2008

    same problem. Cooktop works and lights indicate the oven is on but neither the top or bottom element heat up.


  • Anonymous May 13, 2008

    On my ES340control, self-cleaning oven with ceramic cooktop displays all lights on but no elements or oven heat up. It first began with the right front expandable element going out and all than proceeded. If you turn on other elements the light for the right front goes on as well. If you turn oven on bake 350 it looks as though it is going to heat up, than 30 seconds later the right element light comes on and shorts out entire oven. No one in the area I live services this appliance. Can you trouble shoot me some wiring or other possible solutions to fix my oven. Thank You Anne Bedrossian (253) 884-4298 or e-mail anne3.d.t.a@comcast.net

  • Anonymous Nov 07, 2008

    Every time I put the oven on broil it reads err F13.

  • koreen37 Dec 21, 2008

    Same same....was cooking, went to change from bake to broil and no more heat...panel lights up like all is in order..oven light still works...just no heat.



    So, this "relay" that everyone's mentioning, is it located in the display panel area.



    ...of course I'll give banging the back of the stove a shot...any particular area on the back place that I should be concentrating the blow....



    k

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Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though

Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks

Posted on May 23, 2008

  • Bill Newberry
    Bill Newberry Nov 05, 2008

    Hello,


    Those ES controls on fridigaire ranges have many problems.  Saying the computer is cooked is about as simple as you can put it.   I to am also an authorized factory servicer for electrolux/frigidaire.


    Stuck relay is the issue.  That's why the banging on the control board has fixed the issue.   it may work forever now, or just the next time you use the stove but worth a shot anyway.


    Good Luck,
    Bill

  • melissaconta Oct 05, 2010

    Thanks for the information on the Frigidiare range I will check to make sure the price is correct when I fix my range.

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For all others with this problem: I had the stove serviced. Repairman reported a loose wire to the elemets (tightened and did not fix the problem) followed by a stuck relay, and after some banging on the back of the control panel, the elements now work fine. He said if it happened again the only solution would be to replace the relay/control panel, a part of about $160, but I'll get credit for the price of the service call already paid. Compare to the price of the stove, I'll accept the $125 for the service call.

so tapping on the back of the control panel is worth a try if your stove is pulling this trick.

Posted on May 19, 2008

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If you don't want to spend the money for an entire board, I saw someone on ebay that sells just the relay. Its pretty simple to unsolder the old one and solder in the new one. Do a search for the part number on your relay which is probably T9AV5L12-12 and is notorious for going bad. I have not been able to find those relays anywhere else.

Posted on Jan 09, 2012

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Is there a 'real' solution besides the computer is cookied.

Posted on May 09, 2008

The computer in the chikeen is a problem

Posted on Jan 20, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

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