Question about Frigidaire FEF336BC Electric Kitchen Range
My Frigidaire range/oven had been working perfectly when suddenly the oven would no longer heat up. The display still comes on and operates normally but the oven won't heat up. A few weeks later the range elements stopped heating up as well. What should I check first?
For all others with this problem: I had the stove serviced. Repairman reported a loose wire to the elemets (tightened and did not fix the problem) followed by a stuck relay, and after some banging on the back of the control panel, the elements now work fine. He said if it happened again the only solution would be to replace the relay/control panel, a part of about $160, but I'll get credit for the price of the service call already paid. Compare to the price of the stove, I'll accept the $125 for the service call.
so tapping on the back of the control panel is worth a try if your stove is pulling this trick.
Posted on May 19, 2008
If you don't want to spend the money for an entire board, I saw someone on ebay that sells just the relay. Its pretty simple to unsolder the old one and solder in the new one. Do a search for the part number on your relay which is probably T9AV5L12-12 and is notorious for going bad. I have not been able to find those relays anywhere else.
Posted on Jan 09, 2012
Is there a 'real' solution besides the computer is cookied.
Posted on May 09, 2008
The computer in the chikeen is a problem
Posted on Jan 20, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
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Dec 10, 2013 | Kenmore 96422 / 96424 / 96429 Electric...
Hello steve o - Typically error code F11 indicates a shorted keypad. Try resetting the range by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. This usually will clear most false error codes. Wait approximately ten minutes and if the error code does not clear contact a professional to move forward accurately. Most likely the EOC on the range will need replacing.
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