Carrier transicold tm900, remove evap cools below set
Carrier tm900, remove evap cools below set point,have voltage to heaters,heaters work when i pull down drain pan to inspect.When i install drain pan then restart.Remote evap cools heaters dont seem to do anything.
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The Controller has a built-in Analog to Digital (A-D) converter, used to convert
analog readings (i.e. temperature sensors, current sensors, etc.) to digital readings.
The Controller continuously performs calibration tests on the A-D converter.
If the A-D converter fails to calibrate for 30 consecutive seconds, this alarm is activated.This alarm will be inactivated as soon as the A-D converter calibrates.
I can find no A27 fault code for this unit, what is it doing? You can call carrier and ask for the definition, I think they will give it to you, just have the specific model number in hand when you contact them.
You can order a manual at the following link; http://steprightupmanuals.com/refrigerator-service-manuals/carrier-truck-and-trailer-refrigeration-service-manuals Just select the Supra 644 through 844 series and I believe it is $6.99 to order from this site.
The EVAP core (the part that cools the air) is similar to a dehumidifier. As the outside air passes through the EVAP core it removes the moisture from the air. The moisture collects on the EVAP core and eventually drains out of the EVAP drain which is usually under the passenger side of the car. This is normal any time the a/c is on.
this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.
I'm not sure exactly what unit you have and what controls you have installed on the unit. But....there usually is a flash code schematic on the unit. Usually on the inside of the blower compartment cover. This should tell you what is wrong with the unit. It could have a low voltage short somewhere and is loosing the call for cool. So the answer can be a possible yes to your question but without knowing the flash code, it's hard to tell from my point of view. You might end up calling a service professional out to check it.
sounds like your contactor is stuck closed.This is the part that high voltage connects to and lets power through to the compressor and condenser fan motor when you get a call for cooling.If you go to pull it out,kill the power outside AND at the furnace.