Question about Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
if it doesn't empty check the pump for blockages or just not working electrically, or check cold water supply to machine, or the cold water solenoid, this may also be faulty hope you can find what you need starting from the above, if i have helped please rate me
Posted on Oct 04, 2007
Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
some fabrics are known to do that you have on wrong cycle setting there should be a setting for delicates and clothing and blankets and things when loaded to close to agitator will attract each other together so its wise when loading machine load in a circle leveled out till desired fullness away from agitator they shouldnt attract as much
Posted on May 07, 2008
SOURCE: wet clothes at end of spin cycle
sounds like your transmission is not working properly. check your warranty information. (should be in your owners manual) many of the whirlpool made top loaders came with a 5 year warranty on the transmission/gear case
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
You may have a broken inner tub spider. Check for play between the inner drum and the outer tub by moving the inner drum up and down.
If there is excessive play, the spider is broken causing an unbalanced load and therefore no high speed spin can be achieved.
In this case the inner drum would need to be replaced, which means taking the machine almost completely apart. A good tech can do it in about 1.5 hours.
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
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