Turbochef toaster oven cc temp on warm up only 265 deg ir 465
When switching on the speed oven it goes into warm up mode , it displays cc temp and ir temp for 5 minutes it rises to approx 465 deg on ir probe but cc probe displays only 275 deg , . so when you select toaster button it will cook for 20 seconds , but it doesnt toaster that well , i have started fixing these ovens , but they are little more complicated than the commercial ovens i have fixed before, so i need some expert advice, on why the cc temp does not rise high enough ,
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Re: turbochef toaster oven cc temp on warm up only 265...
If your a commerical oven tech then just call 1-800-90turbo are you getting an error code i would probably check the convection circuit first starting with the blower motor and checking if the Windings are ok
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Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.
WHIRLPOOL - most models Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.
F1 - Analog control board Failure Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board F1 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - Oven temperature sensor open Replace oven temperature probe F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Oven too hot Replace oven temperature probe F3 - Clean temperature too hot Replace oven probe F5 - Door latch switch fault Test and replace the door switch.
Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:
F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop) Replace control board F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open Replace temperature probe F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted Replace temperature probe F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high Replace temperature probe F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot Replace temp. probe F5 - E0 - Check door latch F5 - E1 - Check door latch Replace switch if defective
WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:
F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error Replace ERC F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error Replace ERC F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors Replace ERC F1 E4:2 - Model ID error Reinsert keytail. F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error Replace ERC F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error Replace keypad assembly F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged reinsert the keytail F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open Test and replace top probe. F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted Test and replace temp probe F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature Test and replace temp probe F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature Test and replace temp probe. F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open Test and replace temp probe F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted Test and replace temp probe F5 E0:14 Door switch errot Test and eventually replace door lock switch F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating Test and eventually replace door latch F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error Test the cooling module. PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault. PF occurs when power is disconnected.
WHIRLPOOL Models SF3, 30'' and 24"
F2 - Oven temperature above specifications Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary F5 - Push button stuck or faulty Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing) Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor) Replace ERC. F8 - Electronic control logic error Replace ERC.
The most common issue with this is a bad IR element. When the oven is cold remove the metal rack. you will see the IR element on the bottom. turn the oven on. wait 1 min. open the door and see if the bottom element is warm at all. If the bottom element is still cold then you have a bad element.
The oven is telling you that the secondary switch is not working. Either the switch is broken or the door or switches are out of alignment. the switches cost about 4 dollars. Not an expensive repair by any means.
So are you saying that the oven does not start at all?The 350 just appears on the display and then pressing enter it disappears?Does it warm at all?If it warms,it is most likely the thermocouple or ASM,both are the same,just varies between makers.If it does not heat at all,it sounds like somehow the temperature setting got switched from F to C somehow,which can happen completely not done by you.Let me know which situation you have and I'll figure it out.Greg
First, check the back of the oven. See if the lil red button can be pressed in. Then check the IR Element, usually you can see the wires burned or damaged where it enters the oven by the snap rings. This was a design flaw from the manufacturer of the element of which turbochef has taken care of.
COMPONENTS IR Element The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208 VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at room temperature. The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the splices located approximately 6 inches from the heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires at the I/O control board. The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control board.