Question about GE Zoneline AZ55H07D Air Conditioner

5 Answers

Temperature regulation GE Zoneline AZC906DAV1. Problem started in summer when I had to set the the thermostat control knob to a higher and higher temperature to prevent over-cooling. I replaced the room thermostat. Now it's winter and I have to set the the control to a lower and lower temperature to prevent overheating. It turned cold here last night (20 F), and I now notice the compressor only runs for a short time (maybe 30 to 60 seconds), then shuts off and just the heat strips are working. I put the unit on maximum cooling and it cut off after about 5 minutes. I then put it back to heat, and the compressor ran longer...maybe 5 minutes, before cutting off to heat strips. I see no evidence of freeze-up on the outdoor coils. There are two other thermostats..the defrost thermostat and the freeze protection thermostat. One is indoors,(I can see it on the left side of the coils) the other I think is outdoors but I don't see it. Do you think one of these is the problem.

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  • 9 more comments 
  • tuchwud Jan 20, 2008

    This is not expert advice...for craps sake!!! I can figure out if the compressor is bad

    The compressors fine. It cooled the place down in no time when I set the thing to cool. PLus it coolerd great all summer in 100F outside temp. Something is cutting it off when it shouldn't. I can hear a relay click when it stops compressing.

    I know how the room thermostat controls heat and cold..but there are two other thermostats.

    Either the new room stat GE sent me is defective or it's one or the other of the other ones.

    Which one is suspect...assuming you read what I said first carefully

  • tuchwud Jan 21, 2008

    Yes, I know what the relays look like. I'm an electrical engineer and can read the schematic. I replaced the main power module last summer so I doubt that's it. The only reason I replaced it was that is was buzzing loudly..so was in the process of going bad

    I still have the old room temp thermostat. I'll try putting it back..but I think it's very unlikely to have two in a row go bad. The relay that's clicking is being told to turn on or off by something..that's why I suspect one of the other thermostats. These things go for 90 bucks a pop..I want to make sure it's the right one.

  • tuchwud Jan 21, 2008

    I don't think the first expert understands the problem. Please read the history and reply.

  • tuchwud Jan 21, 2008

    Here's the thing,

    When the "click" comes and the compressor cuts off, the heat strips stay on. Then if I dont turn the temp control down, it really overshoots the temperature in the room...ie. it gets really hot in there. Thats like heating a room with a toaster..or electric oven.

    The temp control knob is calibrated from like 1 to 10 reading clockwise. When the other control (cool, off,fan-only, heat)is set for heat, it would normally be set around 5 for a 70F room temp in the winter..ie 40F outside. This unit easily runs the compressor down to 32F outside. Noiw I have to set the contol to about 8.almost full off heat to keep it from rising too much...and the heat strips still turn on unless I nudge it lower. After that nothing happens until the room gets real cold..like 64F.

  • tuchwud Jan 22, 2008

    I think you're on the right track. I replaced the room thermostat in the summer because the old one wasn't regulating. The new one worked fine for a month or so...and I put the bulb in the exact spot the old one was in..and made sure there were no kinks in the copper tube. After a month it started to not regulate as well, but it was tolerable.

    As soon as the weather turned cold things got worse. I did a very careful experiment today, recording inside and outside temperatures, times etc. I won't bore you with all the details but I think this is what's going on. When it's very cold outside..ie: 20F, and I come into the shop early in the morning, the shop has dropped to 64F. The building is very well insulated and practically air-tight.I nudge the temp control knob counter clockwise to call for more heat, and the compressor comes on for 5 or 10 seconds then 'ClicK" goes a relay and it quits and the heat strips turn on.

    I think this normal..the unit prevents the compressor from running when it cant pump any heat out of the air.

    When it warms out outside..to say 32 degrees, the unit is on the south side of the building and so is a few degrees warmer than that...the compressor comes on and stays on...until it gets too hot in the shop. In other words it's overshooting.

    I believe the problem is the room thermostat even though it's new, it went south shortly after it was installed. I'm a GE retiree so maybe they'll see fit to replace it..otherwise it's another $120 down the drain. At least I get a parts discount..not much but it helps.

  • tuchwud Jan 22, 2008

    If you can help with testing the room stat that would be great. It's a bear to get at. The power relay was easy in comparison. I know I installed it right because the wires are color coded in the schematic and I made a diagram of the connections before I touched anything just to make double sure


    By the way, the bulbv fits into a clip between the front air filter and the front coils so it's pretty hard to get that wrong

    What do you recommend doing to test the room stat?

  • tuchwud Jan 22, 2008

    For the dr.

    Please help with testing the stages of the room thermostat.

    Darklord had some suggestions. I will try to follow those thoughts. I just want to nail down if it's the outside coil thrmostat ( which I can get at by pulling the unit forward out of the shell) I can see the inside coil thermostat hanging of the coil on the left hand side. I would guess the outside one is similar.

  • tuchwud Jan 23, 2008

    Thanks for the response

    I noticed oe other thing. Back in the summer when I replaced the chattering/buzzing power relay and had the unit pulled out I noticed that there was a choke rod attached to flap at the back of the assembly that was detached. I tried to re-attach it but I'm not sure I did.

    OK when I replaced the room thermostat it was still detached but I didn;t think it was important. The control panel on the front of the system has a lever..open/close vent. Nothing happens when I move it up and down so I suspect that the flap is the fresh air vent and it's open. When the compressor cuts off I can feel cold air coming out of the fan on the right hand side...above where the room stat bulb is located. The bulb isn't in this air stream but I'm wondering if that might be causing the problem.When the compressor id running there is no cold air coming out on the right. I also saw that when I shifted the bulb in its clips more towards the center of the coils, the control setting for the room stat was more in the normal range..like around 5 or 6 rather than 7 or 8.

    It's really is erratic. Sometimes the compressor will come on and stay on for 30 minutes and cut off when the room temp is OK. Other times it will come on for 30 seconds and cut off, leaving the heat strips running.

    Today was about 37F all day, and when the compressor cut off, I ran outside and could see frost on the piping of the outside coils..so I think it was going into defrost mode. In the past when that happened you could hear the compressor running quieter, and cold air was coming out of the inside fan,,just what you would expect. It did that today for a while...then went back to it's overshoot /undershoot temp control

    I can do what you suggest on the room stat, but first I think I'll ensure that the fresh air vent is closed. Don't know if this is the cause, but at least it's one thing eliminated.

    Thanks again for your help. This isn't rocket science, but it's getting close.

  • tuchwud Jan 23, 2008

    OK... good thought.

    I'll yank the unit back out of the wall and double check the wiring on the room stat. If that looks OK, I"ll put the old one back and see if it works different. I mean it was working before but with big swings in temp contol so it probably was getting tired. But maybe if I sub it for the new one, I'll find out if I wired it wrong. The schematic is color coded, but this unit is 10 years old and the colors on the wires are hard to see. I'll try cleaning them with a bit of circuit board flux spray.

    While I have it open, I'll seal the fresh air port. Never used it anyway in summer or winter before. The shop is for doing woodworking so the front heat exchanger fins get pretty loaded with dust after a while. I usually put a "tent" over it and blow air through it with my shop vac exhaust. Makes a heck of a mess but I get most of the accumulated dust out of the fins that way.

    I'll try all of these tomorrow. I guess you've ruled out the outside stat ??

  • tuchwud Jan 23, 2008

    Actually, I unplug the unit and blow air in through the fan. That causes the fan to rotate (backwards) which gets some dust off it, and the air comes pouring out from inside through the coil and fins...along with a ton of dust. I have to wear a mask and goggles, but I have a large ceiling mounted air cleaner in the shop and that sucks up some of the junk. The dust still gets spread all over anyway.

  • tuchwud Jan 25, 2008

    This message is for "the dr" guru. The ongoing saga of the GE Zoneline Heat Pump

    I'm back..and followed your direction to the letter. With power plug out of the 240 v outlet, I checked the connections going up in temp setting and back down

    Going up...starting at lowest temp setting (10) Blue(B), Orange (O), Yellow (Y)

    At start BY open, BO 3.3 Kohms (This reading taken with the wiring still attached to the stat, so if BO is open it has resistance shunting it.

    Click#1. BY closed, BO 3.3K

    Click#2. BY closed, BO closed

    It went down to 18F last night, so by that time the room was at 60F, so that's probably OK.

    Going back down in Temp setting:

    Click#1. BY closed, BO 3.3 K

    Click#2 BY open, BO 3.3K

    I checked it again with all the wiring disconnected and all the BO's that were 3.3K were now open.

    I buttoned it back up, put on the power and the only thing that ran was the fan...it's set for continuous mode, not cycling.

    It was getting late so I quit for the night.

    Came back in the morning, reopened everything (major pain) and found that the Yellow wire had slipped off the connection on the tstat. Squeezed all connectors tight with pliers and re-assembled.

    The room temp was about 58 F. Starting from temp setting 10 (lowest): Outside temp was 25F.

    Swiched unit to "Heat" from "Off" on and heat pump started immediately. After 10 minutes I raised control to 8, heard click and I think the strips came on as well because the air out was hotter. Lowered back to 7 and heat pump ran by itself. (cooler air but still good and warm)

    In about 2 hours the room was at 69.5F and rising pretty fast. Outside temp was now 35F. Lowered setting to 8 and all stopped.

    Raised control to 5 1/2, pump stayed off and just strips came on...much hotter air than pump by itself.

    Waited 3 minutes and gradually reduced setting and pump came on at 7., strips cut off.

    By the way I checked the old thermostast that I replaced in the summer and it behaved exactly the same way as the new one when cycling through the clicks.

    It seems that the control setting for 70F is around 7 when it used to be 5-6. Also before all this started the unit would hold temperature within a degree or two, summer and winter. Now it over/undershoots by several degrees.

    I'm concluding that there's nothing wrong with the room tsat...the problem is somewhere else....maybe the outside tsat??

    Hope you get all this..and thanks for all your help to date

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5 Answers

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I am going to attempt to help you locate the issue as best as I can but im limited to the information you provide me. Its a lot to take in so see if I have understood.
Overview
1) Zoneline has all temp controls mounted directly to the unit (not to a wall )
2) The room thermostat (which mounts to the panel on the unit) has been replaced
Problem
1) In heat the unit turns heat pump off and strips on and then overshoots the room temp by a whole lot <20 degrees F????

I have started reading the Service Manual to attempt to figure out how it works without being there. I wanted to make sure Ive got everything right first. For now i can tell you that the thermostat that you cant see is what controls what temp the compressor shuts off at. Also remember that the outdoor coil gets very cold (colder than ambient). This is why when you would switch it back to cool, that could would go from cold coil to hot coil. And that is why it ran longer (that tstat just got hot). Let me know if all is good and ill have lots more info for ya

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 22, 2008

    I suspect that this issue has something to do with the sensing bulb - The bulb that was curled up when it was new. How is that routed....look for reasons why its not sensing the air proper. Everything I have read says the room tstat is what always controls the cycling no matter if its in Heat Pump, Defrost, Strips only.

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 22, 2008

    Also i see from the schematic that The power relay (what you said you replaced last summer) is the relay on the top of the 2 (there is two right??) this is what energizes either the compressor or heat strips depending on what stage the room thermostat is calling for. If the room thermostat is 6deg or more under desire set temp, for instance if its 60 and you set it for 70 it will be on 2nd stage which is heat strips first when it heat up the room to 64 it will shut strips off and compressor on. Now the 2nd relay. If the defrost thermostat (the one you cant see without pulling the unit forward) says the outdoor coil is too cold (factory set at 8deg) it will shut the compressor down and turn the strips on. Still this relay is controlled by the room thermostat, so unless it sticking after the room thermostat tries to shut it off there is no reason for this inside temp overshoot. I can help with testing the stages of the thermostat.....but check that sensing bulb first...its always something really simple like the sensing bulb falling out of air stream that makes people think the worst is wrong.

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 22, 2008

    My way of testing the thermostat wont involve all the hair dryer and ice but it will requie axcess to the room thermostat. If i had to test it I would test it after its been turned off for awhile. It would be best to test if the room was between 60-65deg. Once you axcess the thermostat and have figured out which wires to test for 1st stage, 2nd stage. On my diagram it shows blue to yellow and 2nd stage is blue to orange. Make sure that there is no continuity from blue to either set at full cold with room temp being 60-65deg. Start moving dial slowly towards heat and see at what point does blue make yellow. Then move slowly towards full heat after 6deg warmer than 1st st Blue to Yellow should drop out and blue to orange will make. And then cycle it back cool and report to me how the stages operate. Also just make sure the sensing bulb is damaged in any way and is obsrtucted in any way from air flow.

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 23, 2008

    Yeah seal that fresh air door shut.. You dont ideally want that air mixing unless you a motel and you do want some fresh air. The cold drafts could be causing the room stat to not control proper. What I want you to understand is how the unit works. Today when the compressor cut off, and you found the frost, it did go into defrost. As soon as that happens than the heat strips should come on and finish heating the room. If the defrost relay isnt kicking in as soon as the compressor shuts down, (as long as the unit is still calling for 1st stage heat) than maybe its faulty and its not energizing and than not deenergizing the heater proper causing the overshoot.

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 23, 2008

    It almost sounds like you may have the stages reversed on the room tstat?? I say this because you say that the compressor comes on for 30 secs or runs all day. Anytime the room thermostat is set 6deg higher than room temp than the strips are on ---not compressor. So if you walk in , its cold in there and you crank the heat mid setting it should run on heat strips only until it gets 6deg from cycling off. If you walk in, crank it, and compressor comes on...somethins def not right with the wiring.

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Jan 23, 2008

    I believe the outside stat is doing its job, since it shut it down today about when it should have.

    You say the coil gets dusty

    If you are blowing the air straight into the coil you could just be lodging the dirt deeper in the coil. This could cause air to maybe not be moving proper through the coil to get an accurate temp reading. Just a thought...

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  • Expert
  • 128 Answers

Just try calling GE customer support. They will be able to help you for sure. 1-800-GE-CARES (1-800-432-2737)

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,314 Answers

Well im not real familiar with this particular unit but if its supposed to heat in the winter it would have to reverse the freon flow to do that so the out side would become the evaporator and the inside becomes the condenser the way heat pumps do this is with a reversing valve its a solenoid with several copper lines coming into it and two wires on top to switch the freon flow now if that solenoid goes bad i know you can get this problem on heat pumps but on a personal note ive never known heat pumps to work that great when the tempeture gets real low any way and dark lord is just trying to help the clicking maybe trying to acuate that selnoid

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

  • robert samples Jan 21, 2008

    ive e mailed your problem to the head of ge tech support as soon as i hear something will reply to you

  • robert samples Jan 21, 2008

    i have an expert in your feild comming later this afternoon hes called dr so watch your post

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  • 209 Answers

That's not my area of expertise at all but im just throwing my ideas in here, you don't have to rate them if they don't help.

You can try calling GE, they should be eager to help.
GE Service:
1-800-GE-CARES (1-800-432-2737)
GE Answer Center:
1-800-626-2005 GE Parts & Accessories:
1-800-626-2002 http://www.geappliances.com/products/introductions/zoneline/warranty.htm That website shows what is covered under what warranty if you still have warranty. Well thats all I got, sorry. Wait a bit until therers an expert on air conditioners. Good Luck

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

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  • Master
  • 2,427 Answers

Well the thermostats does regulate the temperatre wy cutting and turnng on the compressor, So its eighter that or the compressor,,,

Posted on Jan 20, 2008

  • 6 more comments 
  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    Well if you are hearig a relay cick, i suggestyou open it up and find the maincircutboard, look for thr relays(i'm assuming you know what these look like seeing you have some knowledge about it) there should be 2 relays 1 for each thermostat. the one that is clicking means that module is turning it off.. If you suspect there is conjenatitive power fault, you can use a miltimeter and see if the main power input to the relay is constant. the relay out will only become active when the thermostat allows a passive amount or current. the clicking sound yyour hearing from the relay occurs when the switch becomes active or inactice.. so jsut find the clicking relay and you will find your faulty module.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    BTW more than likely its the room controlled temperature thermostat thats most likely the bad component.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    To be sure find the clicking relay

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    The relay that clicks, Gets an ipunt voltage from something, what i was suggesting was trace it using contuinty test with your multimeter,, or use the schemetic to see whic thermostat it trips or which trips it. You have a lot of knowledge so you would know the first one you look at is the room temperature thermostat and then if thats ok , its the external thermostat looking at the temperature of the incoming air , it possibley shorting and fooling the machine into believeing that the incoming air is already the right temperature. But i dont like to give bad advise and i like to be certin thats why i am insistant that you check it. Please forgvie me if i had you think otherwise or if i have offended you, but i understand money is hard to come by and i dont like to waste it, or people waste it because of me.

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    its deffenately the thermostat and i strongly believe its the one inside, but you said you changed it so it likely the outside one, I'm really unsure which to tell you to change thats why i suggested the testing.. But my money is the room temperature controll sensor (thermostat inside)

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 21, 2008

    Its also possible your compressor is overheating and fouling that will explain why it works good when its cold.. i know u said its fine, but it's just an observation..

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 22, 2008

    Ok you say that when you set it for more heat, the compressor cust off right ? set it to a favourable vale, one where the compressor doesn't cut off and using a hair dryer blow hot air directly on the thermostat.. see how log it takes to cut off at the current setting and at a higer heat setting..

    now using a fan and an ice wrapped in a cloth, blow cold air to the thermostat and see how long it takes to cut off at the current temperature then at a highrt temperature..



    I think what you will find is this, that when cold air is blown towards the thermostat, even if you send the heat right up, it will not cut off..



    If that fails to show any favourable responce then i suggest you change the outer thermostat..

  • Rishi Roshan Ali Jan 26, 2008

    Did you try testing the eletronic controll circuits ?

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