Clock, light etc work but does not heat up. Has

Things to check : Thermostat, heating element and the circuit breaker for the stove at the power panel. If the stove has lights and the clock works, there is a 100 % chance the circuit breaker is at fault. There are 2 breakers with joined trip handles. One of those breakers has tripped without tripping the other which stops 20 volts but not 120 volts that the clock and light run off of. You can use a multimeter to check the element for continuity. If there is continuity then check for the presence of voltage at the element terminals. None indicates a bad thermostat.

your heating element is out..its located in side the dryer..you will need to remove a cover or two..

It sounds like you are getting only one side of the power to your stove. the lights will work but no heat. your power breaker has two sides for an electric stove. It may be one side isn't reset properly. make sure that you snap the breaker completely off and then completely back on. if that doesn't work perhaps an electrician is in order or one side of your power cord has burned off at the terminal block. I have had this happen.

get in an electricians to check what looks good but isn't

No. Sounds more like a power problem. Check your circuit breakers for the stove. You shoud be getting 240 volts to the stove. If you are only getting 120 volts the clock and lights will still work but no heating.

ater spilled (4-5 cups) on the stove top running down into the stove control panel face (where you view oven temp, timer, etc). No water ever dripped into the oven or oven window. The stove top still works but the oven, warming drawer, clock are all non responsive after three days. No buttons on the control panel work at all. What repair is needed?

Sounds like the wires connecting your control panel to the individual heating elements have either shorted out or been disconnected. Try taking off the control panel board and testing the connections (the four on the sides of the circuit board in the middle, and the two five pin and one three pin connector on the mainboard). If they are good, then your problem lies in the control board itself and will require a replacement from Whirlpool. Depending on if you have the touch sensor board or a push switch, it can run upwards of a few hundred bucks.

i would say that its on its way out if its causing so many issues.if its running too often then it will cause the compressor to over heat eventually

clock works because its only 110 volts.all else is 220.as a repair man the firstplace i would check is the cord.[power off]why there first the installers dont know how important it is for those cord screws to be very tight.consequintly the leave them looseish,and thats where they burn.if thats ok.make sure you have 220 there at the cord.God bless you,tom

sound as if you only have 120 volts going to the range check the voltage