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The furnace lights for a few minutes and then shuts off. Turned the water pressure up and water is now draining from the drain pipe of furnace. Please advise on a solution. I am freezing.

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Hi,
The problem you are having is because the circulator or one of the ciculator pumps had stopped working.
The boiler is firing to try to heat the house but because the pump is not moving the water it does not stay on for long.
Turn the water pressure back down, because the water leaking causes it to add more water and fresh water corrodes your heating system. The higher pressure will not help you to heat your house.
If your know where and what your check valves are you can manually open them to let water gravity flow through the system till you can get the pump replaced. This will get you some more heat.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

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1 Answer

My F09 and my E01 codes keep coming on in mid cycle and shutting down the cycle


F09/E01 are related codes.

LONG DRAIN: If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes without reaching reset level in pressure sensor, the valves are turned off and the drain pump will stop running. NOTE: Suds can cause delays in draining. Washer drains for 4 minutes, pauses 5 minutes, then tries again for 4 additional minutes of draining. F9E1 will display if washer does not drain. (Normal drain takes less than 2 minutes)

Possible Causes:
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See TEST #8 (Drain Pump) on page 19. Is pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?Is pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?Is pressure hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
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My high efficiency furnace has water (possibly condensation) running down the air intake pvc pipe into the furnace and all over the burner, gas valve, and wiring.


First, check the drainline from the furnace. You have a 90% gas fired furnace. Where 80% furnace has 1 heat exchanger, yours has 2 heat exchangers. And the second heat exchanger will cool the exhaust enough, that it ends up below the dew point, and your furnace outlet/exhaust will condensate. This drain is probably stopped up. Now, I've installed and service many of these systems and I've only seen the piping at the roof you described once. And that was when the roofers replaced the roof, damaged the furnace flue pipe, and tried to repair it themselves. Normally, and this may not apply to yours, we tie in the exhaust/supply lines about 2-3 ft. above the furnace. Then 1 pipe goes through the roof. Thus 1 pipe is a kit that has an inner liner & outer pipe(2 pipes in 1). Now I'm not sure if this is a problem or normal for your system, but it may be worth looking into. You should be able to find it in the installation manual, or call a local parts house that sells your brand, or as your tech. And if it's just your drain, forget all about the piping I mentioned. Hope this helps!

Mar 08, 2017 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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Brand New Ducane Furnace with Multiple Error Codes


Check your drain line. It appears that water is not draining and backing up into the furnace. Is there a drain trap? If not or if there is no vent on the drain line there can be a vacuum created when the furnace is running and it actually pulls water back into the furnace and when the inducer shuts off it releases the vacuum allowing the water to drain.

Dec 17, 2012 | Honeywell Furnace Air Pressure Switch...

1 Answer

York 95% furnace keeps shutting down when temps drop to -20+ at night . it appears to be freezing up the exhaust pipe and the pressure switches wont close on startup. it has a concentric vet, 2".


We don't get that cold here so that is a interesting ?? I would assume at those temperature that the furnace would be running almost all of the time and would condernse alot of water... It the drain system on the furnace is getting blocked up it will cause the pressure switch to not close. I would check all of the traps and hoses to make sure they are open.....and draining, You could put armaflex Insulation on the 2" flue pipe to help keep it from getting so cold.... Is it freezing on the exhaust or the intake hub? You can take the inlet pipe off at the furnace and use the inside air instead of outside air when you are running the furnace at -20 outside temperatures.... but keep the exhaust pipe hooked up to the furnace and keep venting it outside... Then I would hook the intake back up when the outside tempertures got warmer......I don't know if this helps but its what I would try...

Feb 12, 2011 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Vent motor shuts on and off repeatedly before igniting furnace on goodman high eff furnace


Look at the black hoses inside the unit. Remove power to the furnace and remove these lines and clean them out with a water and clorox solution. Then inspect the condensate drain line for algae build-up and clean as necessary. Its shutting down because the pressure switch is seeing a small back pressure from a blockage. Most likely water that has not drained. It tries this three times before it shuts down for 5 minutes and tries again. The blockage can also be inside the black manifold that these lines run to before the condensate drain line. This can also be removed and cleaned out if necessary. Check for proper slope of the drain line to prevent this in the future and service/clean these lines anually.

Jan 27, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

When temp is below freezing furnace will not ignite. Fan will turn on but there's no combustion. eventually it kicks on but shuts down after a few min. We only have this problem in the really cold temps.


Check the condensate drain lines in the furnace. disconnect the power and remove the cover. Remove the black drain lines and flush and clean with a water and clorox solution. Then check the rest of your condensate drain line for blockage. the blockage is freezing and causing the furnace to shut down for a pressure problem.

Jan 25, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?


It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


Nov 16, 2010 | Rheem Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

1 Answer

My furnace will not start the ignition process unless I disconnect the pressure switch (combustion tube not blower tube). What could be the cause? It's a new pressure switch. The vent pipe is clean.


I assume when you say you disconnect the pressure switch you mean you jump the wiring terminals? You say your vent is clean,but what about your combustion air inlet piping? Is it clear. It is not unusual for a furnace to sit over the summer and have the condensate drain trap dry out. This drain will drain the condensation from the blower and discharge to drain. If there is no water in the trap, it can allow air to flow up through the drain, which will cause a drop in the negative pressure. Try "priming" the trap by pouring enough water down drain hose until water comes out by the drain. If that doesn't work check to be sure motor is going full speed and that there are no creatures that have crawled into your inlet piping over the summer.

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1 Answer

The inducer fills with water and passes into the pressure switch


This unit is designed to condense, I suspect that the drain is blocked by some debris. Remove the larger hoses from the burner box and inducer motor and blow into them to clear any debris. Plug the end of the hose so you don't force water into either the inducer or burner box. Make sure that there is a vent on the drain just as it leaves the furnace cabinet. This will assist the drain to work properly and not cause the condensation to go up in the pressure switch hose.

Jan 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We have a dayton gas furnace model #3E463A. thought the control box was gone. got new one we furnace starts up the power goes on, fan starts no green pulsing light on control no ignition


When your furnace starts...the Ventor motor(exhaust fan) starts up....within a short time (seconds) the Pressure switch closes proving that the Fan is indeed running and the vent is not blocked...if this doesnt happen the furnace will not poweer the ignitor or fire at all....Check the vent pipe outside and look for obstructions or dirt on the screen inside the pipe...the condensate from the fuirnace may not be draining at all...due to plugged condensate drain lines...find this tube coming out of the furnace front...bottom of upper compartment usually , and pull it off the tap....if water starts coming out then your drain is plugged downstream of the furnace.

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