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Car problems my clutch is giving no resistence and the engine won't turn over. Instead it makes a fast serious of clicking noises when I try to start it.

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Clicking noises from the starter motor means a flat battery.
Clutch not having any resistance is from having leaking seals in either the clutch master or slave cylinder. Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid and pump it up for a short term fix.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Cannot start loud fast clicking noise


Clicking noise would indicate starter solenoid faulty! This would also be the case if battery low but since you have a new battery you can look at the starter solenoid!

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the revving sound could be coming from the radiator fan clutch with the engine OFF try turning fan should have slight resistance and smooth

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1999 magna. engine starts, idles, runs fine. when clutch is engaged bike accelerates smoothly and runs fine but makes odd banging(?) sound especially when under load. sound is similar to sound made when...


Hi, Chuck I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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My 1996 Nissan Altima Won't start, The battery is Fine But When I push in the clutch and turn it over it doesn't do anything at all


Clutch safety switch maybe . There is a electrical circuit that won't let Battery voltage go to the starter unless the clutch pedal is pressed . The switch should be on top of the clutch pedal arm . You would need to lay on the drivers floor board an look up under the dash . Two wires , green with white stripe - this is the B+ side of the switch , the other side is black . trying to start the vehicle there should be battery voltage , you can use a volt meter to test it . You can also check the other wire as well . If there is no B+ voltage , up stream from the clutch switch is a clutch interlock relay . Here is a web site for free wiring diagrams , do you know what they are ?
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter the vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size . Under system click engine , then subsystem click starting . Click the blue link .You will see the ignition switch , the other things i mention . Do you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ?

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Why car not going fast in local


Is it an auto? If so maybe your auto trans fluid is low.

If not maybe the clutch has begun to slip. To test that, start the engine, let it idle, put it in 3rd gear, and let the clutch out slowly. The engine should stall, with no slippage or delay in that.

Jan 15, 2012 | 2000 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

1995 nissan maxima


So the problem has been occuring for a year and you are just now trying to fix it? Sorry, I just simply do not understand why people do this...keep driving it until it won't drive anymore even though you KNOW it has a problem....Maybe you can explain this to me???

If you can hear the starter clicking when you try to start it, then you have a bad starter. If it makes no noise at all. then you most likely have a bad clutch switch.

Dec 31, 2011 | 1995 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

The van starts fine when at non operating temperature but after it runs and warms up and i turn it off THEN try to start it i have to wait for it to cool down to get it to start.(it's just warm not...


On engines with belt-driven cooling fans, a fan clutch is often used to save energy and reduce noise. The fan clutch disengages slows or disengages the engine's cooling fan when extra cooling isn't needed. The fan pulls air through the radiator and air conditioning condenser when the vehicle isn't moving fast enough to provide adequate airflow for cooling. A fan can eat up anywhere from a couple of horsepower up to 12 or 15 hp on a big V8, so by reducing the parasitic horsepower loss on the engine the fan clutch makes a noticeable difference in fuel economy.

A slipping fan clutch is often overlooked as the cause of an engine overheating problem.

As a fan clutch ages, fluid deterioration gradually causes an increase in slippage (about 200 rpm per year). After a number of years of service, the clutch may slip so badly that the fan can't keep up with the cooling needs of the engine and the engine overheats. At this point, replacement is often necessary.

Other signs of fan cluch failure would include any looseness in the clutch (check for fan wobble), or oil streaks radiating outward from the clutch hub.

If the clutch is binding, the fan may not release causing excessive cooling and noise, especially at highway speeds

CHECKING THE FAN CLUTCH

A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced.

If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.

Fan speed can also be checked with an optical tachometer, by marking one of the fan blades with chalk and using a timing light to observe speed changes, and/or listening for changes in fan noise as engine speed changes.

You should also try to wiggle the fan blades by hand. If there is any wobble in the fan, there is a bad bearing in the fan clutch, or a worn bearing on the water pump shaft. A bad water pump bearing will usually cause the water pump to leak and/or make noise, but not always. Remove the fan clutch and see if the play is in the water pump shaft. If it feels tight (no play or wobble), replace the fan clutch.

I posted this to another Ford Problem and I believe it applies to you as well.

This is a shot in the dark with out running diagnostics myself but here it goes, I had a 1988 Cavalier that would just die while I was driving it. On short drives, in the morning, when the engine was cool... it would not die. It would only die after the engine heated up to a certain point.

I took it all over the place to see what the problem was and nobody could figure it out, until finally I took it to my local Firestone shop and they had a special diagnostic tool that checked all of the electrical connections and low and behold I had a misc. wire that crossed the back of my engine from one side of the engine bay to the other. This wire was melted to my engine block and when the engine heated up to a certain point the wire would short out.

After they pinpointed the wire they replaced it with an in-tact wire and it worked beautifully.

Again, I am not stating that this is for sure your problem, but take it from me that there are better diagnostics to run then your standard error code ODB II dump.

Hope that helps and let me know if there are any developments.

Brian

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1 Answer

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about the guage, try replacing the cable that goes to the back of the sppedomoter to the transmission

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