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Freezer keeps frosting up and refrigertor not getting cold

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HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:


The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Dec 11, 2009

    Additionally, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

    Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. WARNING: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

    The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

    Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. this will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

    Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, are controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

    Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.



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SOURCE: freezer gets cold but the refrigertor does not

It sounds like the freezer fan is not working. It's located on the back freezer wall and should run when the compressor runs.

Posted on Jun 21, 2010

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1 Answer

Freezer freezes and refrigertor will not stay cold


Hi

Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer or evaporator fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils under the unit for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan to see if it is running.
If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.
You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with the doors open to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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1 Answer

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Things to check
Check freezer...
for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing,
Check condenser...
To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing by compressor & IF it is running
Check Recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage,

CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting,
YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL
To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING
Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side

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If your getting frost build up in the freezer..u said u tried defrosting... is frost building up it freezer?

IF so you have a defrost problem...bad  heaters, defrost themostat or defrost timmer, if ya need more help post more info

Things to check
Check freezer...
for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing,
Check condenser...  
To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing by compressor & IF it is running
Check Recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage,

CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting,
YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL
To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING
Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side

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1 Answer

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check freezer for frost build up and if fan blowing, check condenser make sure clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, freezer control should be in the middle setting, you can try turning that to Warmer freezer allowing MORE air to refrigertor side.

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Check freezer... for Frost build up and if Fan is blowing, Check condenser... To make sure clean, and the fan is blowing (by compressor), Check recirclating Vents in refrigerator... to make sure theres no blockage, CONTROLS ...should be in the middle setting, YOU CAN TRY turning FREEZER CONTROL To A WARMER FREEZER SETTING Allowing.. MORE AIR.. to refrigertor side

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what to you mean by defrosted fridg. was frost built up in freezer>? check freezer for frost build up and if fan blowing, check condenser make sure clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, freezer control should be in the middle setting, OR you can try turning that to Warmer freezer allowing MORE air to refrigertor side.

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Refrigerator/Freezer not cooling


check freezer for frost build up and if fan blowing, check condenser make sure clean, and fan blowing, by compressor Make sure compressor is running and not shutting off on overload.. u said comp. hot.. should be warm... Not hot check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, freezer control should be in the middle setting, you can try turning that to Warmer freezer allowing MORE air to refrigertor side.

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