Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
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Sud SUDS LOCK (Overdose of Detergent detected during the Wash Cycle)
The motor control unit senses a suds lock condition by analyzing the current draw on the drive motor. If "Sud" is displayed a potential suds lock is detected. This may signify a bad pump, an extra heavy load, excessive detergent, or excessive suds.
Best regards Richard
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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F35 error means that there is some sort of issue with the steamer electronic board and analog pressure sensor has gone bad. Check that the hose is firmly attached with the washer and is not blocked. You can also check the water level pressure switch operation. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
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WARNING: THIS WRITE-UP IS COMPLETELY MY OPINION BASED ON MY EXPERIMENTATION WITH THE EQUIPMENT. TRY ANY OF IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU WILL BE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL THE CONSEQUENCES (GOOD OR BAD EITHER WAY) THAT YOU MAY REAP FROM THE MACHINE YOU WORK ON.
I made the biggest mistake of taking the whirpool WFW9600TA01 from US to India - I had been totally frustrated with the SUDS/F35 issue, absolutely as explained in the question above.
I started as a novice but feel very confident to write this solution now. There are several areas that could cause this problem. Fundamentally, as the water fills the tub, the pressure form the pressure switch is sensed. If the value is not in line with what is programmed, you get this error. This deviation in pressure value can be caused by any of the below reasons.
First and foremost thing I would do is remove (disassemble - note very carefully the assembly and the position before disassembling. You will need to reassemble in the exact same way in the exact same position) and clean all the pipes, hoses and connectors
The problem could occur because of:
1. True suds formation due to wrong soap usage (pretty often the problem) - Solution for this? - use a lot of vinegar and a few "risnse and spin" cycles with out any clothes in the washer
2. The pressure switch could have gone bad. Solution - replace the pressure switch (I would do this the last though)
3. There could be dirt collected at the water inlet. Solution remove the water inlet and clean the cup shaped strainer
4. Your outlet/drain pump (the one that pumps the water out of the washer into the drain) may have worn out, there by not draining out all the water. This will leave residual water impacting the next run. Solution replace the pump assembly
5. There may be particle collection such as coins pens, small pins etc in the darn pump inlet strainer causing the drain pump to not work properly and in turn causing SUDS/F35. Solution - remove the front of the drain pump inlet and remove the particles and restart.
6. There is a conical shaped connector connecting the outlet of the tub to the inlet of the drain pump. At one side of this connector (the broader side connecting to the tub) there is a plastic ball in it. If the ball is punctured, water may have collected in it causing it to weigh more than what it is supposed to. When the drain pump runs, the weight of this ball may counter act to not allow proper draining of the water. This residual accumulation of the water will cause SUDS/F35 in the next cycle. Solution - replace that flexible connector. Atleast drain the water from the front at the drain pump inlet, if you want the washer to work for that cycle.
7. There is a small white plastic tube at the back which runs a black tube to the pressure swtich. The assembly is pretty interesting. It is a simple insertion with the air tightness being achieved by a simple rubber gasket covering the insertable part (do not know why the design is such). After a few washes due to the vibration generated by the tub during wash, this gasket can move causing air leaks. Such air leaks do not cause any issue to the current run, but will result in a SUDS/F35 in the next run. It will remain so for al the next runs unless it is re-inserted properly. Solution for this? every time open the rear and make sure the plastic white part is pushed in well.
8. There are other reasons like the main control circulatory / mother board could have gone bad etc. You can figure if this is the problem by running the diagnostic tests for the most part - there is a good chance that only a certified technician can tell you. Solution - replace the mother board (quite stupid huh!!)
9. Finally, the steamer assembly could have gone bad - Although the manual says this, I cannot quite figure out how this would affect the pressure buildup in the tub - I do not know what to do. More than likely if you invite a technician, the person might ask you to replace this assembly.
Try everything - the net effect should be that you have plugged all air leaks. I know some expect to see water leaks at place where air leak exists. That may not be true at all. Good luck with everything.
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