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Re: Home heating issue! hot air is cold when it reaches...
Just guessing, but I'll bet your 2nd floor duct work is in the attic, and uninsulated, wrapping all attic mounted duct work with R-13 insulation and sealing it with tape will help but there is still going to be a slug of cold air pumped into the upstairs rooms each time the furnace cycles.
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According to the owners manual, the "Economy" mode is designed to reduce the temperature setting by 2 degrees every hour. May not be what you were expecting... On the too hot issue: Check the thermostat setting - it can read either Celsius or Farenheit - Make sure you are setting it to what you think you are... Recommendation: if it is heating higher than set temperature is 1) set the temp lower and see how it does or 2) call a repair man to check and calibrate the thermostat.
With a two story house you have to be aware that cold air flows downwards so any cold air coming from an ac unit will flow downstairs( normally down the stairway) so unless you can close off the down stairs then the up stairs unit will be cooling downstairs as well. Ac units have a thermostat located in the air intake and it cools until the cold air has risen to that point. In effect the space above the ac unit will be hotter than the floor. Knowing how they work ,you can see that the upstairs unit will never reach the set temperature because the cold air is continually heating from the house and will never get to the top thermostat.
So your solutions are
1-- fit controls that restrict the cold air from leaving the upper floor (Doors)
2--don't run the upper ac unit unless you are living up there (waste of money
)3 place an ac in each upper room and keep the room door closed
Sounds like your heater coolant hose door flap is broken or loose. May want to check behind the heater controls, if your components are mechanically operated. If electronically, may need to perform more troubleshooting before replacing this component.
Kathryn, if you are operating it in a basement application, the problem is that air temperature at floor level, is colder than at shoulder level. Dehumidifiers struggle to work at temperatures between 40 & 65 degrees F (Unless they are Low Temp model designed for basement applications). And will ice up at times. Raising the unit up off the floor onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc that can handle the weight of the unit, plus a full bucket of water, will usually resolve the problem.
If it's not a basement application, try lowering the humidity extraction level to 35%. In you have an analog unit, turn the control knob to Maximum.
I hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.
Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.
In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.
From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.
If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.
It sounds like the Rinnai units are working correctly but you've got some plumbing problems. Any tankless heater has a minimum water flow required to keep the burners going. If the burners were going with very little water flowing through them to carry the heat away, the heat exchanger could overheat and fail. The solution is generally to the electronic controls to set the desired temperature and then just use hot water. Once you start mixing cold water in, you actually reduce the flow of hot water and the burners turn off. If you are right near the cut off point, the burners will cycle on and off resulting in those very annoying hot-cold-hot-cold showers.
The fact that you've got those very loud noises indicates some other sort of plumbing problem. Hooking up two tankless units in series is much more complicated. In heavy draw situations, the second unit is asked to finish heating the water up to temperature when the first unit couldn't quite get it there. Now you're putting hot water into a heater and heating it more. You have a lot more issues with fluctuating temperatures and pressures within the pipes which could conceivable cause these horrible noises. Everything's got to be set up right to for things to function properly and it's easy to get something wrong.
From your description, it sounds like a better solution would have been to mount the two heaters in different places. e.g. One in the basement to serve basement and first floor faucets. The other on the second or third floor to serve those two floors. Since these units are direct vent (don't use inside air), they can even be mounted in a closed closet as long as the vent can get to the outside. With this setup you avoid the complexities of a series installation and you also have a much shorter wait time (and therefore less waste) for the fixtures on the upper floors.