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Re: car AMP from subs making noise and only from AMP
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ou may have damage to the circuit board in the amplifier. If it is a whining sound it could be coming through the subs without you realizing it. Are your RCA cables and power cables separated from each other by at least 18 inches?
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If the car was running when testing sub and heard noise this could be engine noise and an inline filter would cure that problem and also have a good ground no more than 15 inches away from the amp.And good metal contact for ground.
The first amp, sounds like there is straight power going through the gain instead of it being limited. The second amp...hook the other subs up to it and see if it sounds ok. If so, then the subs are messed up. If it sounds the same, make sure the subs are connected correctly.
Umm.. subs are usually meant for bass. do you mean amp power wire? if you just want to be able to hear the mid's and highs better just turn the bass down either on the equalizer on your amp or on your cd player.
I would try running the subs in parallel. Pos to Pos Dual Voice, Neg to Neg Dual Voice. Then Run + to + stereo - to - stereo on both channels.
So you have + and - running to one channel and + and - running to the other channel.
Also your LPF filter could be set too high.
Give that new sub a chance to "break in". New speakers require a few hours of use before the voice coil(s) and spider break in and began operating at their best performance. Is the box within the operating specs of the sub? Is this a ported box; if so you will here some turbulance type noise from the port. What type of distortion are you hearing? Alternator noise(dentist drill like sound) would only be noticable through a sub at lower volumes due to the frequency response of a sub. Is the amps lowpass crossover turned on?
Connect each speaker coil one at a time to a square 9 volt battery and watch for the cone to move.
Also try hooking another speaker to your amp just to make sure the noise isn't in the amp.
You can use a 9 volt battery to test wire polarity also. Hook up the + wire of the speaker to the + terminal of the battery and the - speaker to the - battery terminal. If the speaker moved UP or OUT then the wiring is correct. If it moved IN or DOWN then the + and - wires are backwards on the speaker.
Also if you have two or more speakers hooked together test all the same way while they are hooked to each other. ALL of the speakers need to move in the same direction at the same time.
Clipping causes more speaker damage than anything. "Dirty Power" can happen in good quality amps too. The gain control is to match the voltage between the headunit and the amp. It is NOT a volume or boost knob. If you overdrive the first stage of the amp and then clip it damage will occur to the amp and speakers at some point.
So I am assuming that you have just setup/wired this up recently? Have you had this working before? You can have a look at the gain control on the amp & see if this have been set really low. This will help if the signal coming from your stereo is weak. The other thing I would suggest is to make sure that the amp can actually push this sub. I know what the specs say:
Remote gain control, mounting hardware & screws included
but I don't believe most of these. Many manufacturers embellish what their products can actually do! With the bigger more established brands such as JL Audio you will have no problems, their products have been tried & tested so much on the competition circuit.