Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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How do I get change out of the washer? It went

How do I get change out of the washer? It went behind the main tub under the rubber into one of the three fan type things inside?

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I think you are talking about the three tub baffles that are attached to the inner tub. You can remove the baffles, usually one or two screws hold these into the tub. If it only has one screw then the opposite end is clipped into the tub. Most coins however get flushed down into the drain pump filter. We call this a coin catcher as that is what it is designed to do. Remove the front bottom panel, 3 to 4 screws on the bottom. Put a towel down under the pump to catch about a half gallon of water. There is a large round plastic screw that you unscrew from the pump assembly. The screw is three to 4 inches in diameter and almost dead center on the bottom front of the washer. Once you have unscrewed the unit, pull it out and clean out everything you see. Look inside and make sure there is nothing in the hose or the pump inlet hole. Reinstall and test for leaks before you put the panel back on. I recommend you clean this out every 6 months. Good Luck,
Appliance Specialists

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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I have water coming out from under the washer. What should I look for?


It leaks Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: During fill only During drain and spin only All the time During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these: Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it. The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these: Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate. Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make

Jan 02, 2010 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

I found water under the washer. I took the top


Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.


  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.


During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.


  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Jul 13, 2009 | LG WM1814CW Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Leaking door due to the wire ring that holds rubber seal


Bosch Nexxt 500 WFMC3301 Front Load Washer how
to get the metal ring back on.
This video will show you how to change a door seal on this Bosch front loader washing machine and also how to replace the metal rings.
we have all bosch repairs in our channel.
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a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Oct 06, 2008 | Bosch Nexxt 500 WFMC3301 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore HE 110.4751 front load


soild metal part fits in groove around door boot spring goes in at bottom they can be tough to get back on after inserting in groove around seal you'll have to stretch the spring and pop it under at the same time band will try to come back out and roll seal back off lip..good luck

Jul 16, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leak


It sounds like you have a leak somewhere around the door bellow. This is the rubber boot that seals the wash tub to the door frame. Pull the folds back and inspect around the entire perimeter of the rubber. You could have a small rip or tear somewhere. There are a series of small holes in the bottom of the bellow that are supposed to be there. This is the allow any standing water to drain back into the wash tub. If you cannot find any obvious signs of leaks, remove the lower panel under the door. This is accomplished by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then off. Start the washer on a normal wash and watch for any leaks. If the door bellow leaks, the front counterweight (usually a concrete block) will begin to get wet and drip. This could also be an indication of the bellow clamp around the wash tub being loose. If the leak starts to pool under the washer and run out the front, this is usually an indication of a drain pump leak or drain line leak. Please inspect the washer with the panel removed and the washer on a load and post back and let me know. Go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response. I hope this helps you.

PS One other item. On the left hand side of the door bellow is the a dispenser tube that penetrates through the bellow and allows water to enter the wash tub. Sometimes the dispenser tube is not seated all the way into the rubber (should be seated past the flange) and it will dispense water behind the rubber instead of into the wash tub. Just something else to consider...

Jun 20, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vert Tube Behind Tub on X-Large Loads


Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jun 18, 2008 | GE WBB4500EWW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

F11 code


"F11" is a serial communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU). In short, you need to check all the connections between the CCU (which is located in the center of the washer directly behind the wash tub with the top casing removed), the MCU (which is located in the bottom portion of the washer on the left-hand side looking in from the back with the rear panel removed), and the connections to the drive motor (located under the wash tub in the rear).
In a nutshell, the majority of the time I have experienced this problem, it has been a failed CCU. You can find a replacement at repairclinic.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number in the Search menu and look for item #1176592. The part lists for about $50 less than what Sears carries it for. I don't know if you will find it any cheaper.

As far as the smell goes...this is usually caused by leaving the washer door closed and not cleaning the tub periodcially. Front loaders are notorious for this problem. It is caused by residual water (which is normal) sitting in the wash tub with the door sealed. The water will sour and the tub will also mildew, because of lack of air to dry the tub out. Another item to mention is to check in and around the rubber door boot. Small items, such as socks and underwear can get caught behind the rubber seal and start to smell. This area should also be cleaned periodically. If you have checked the drain trap and drain lines thoroughly, then clean the rubber boot. Run the washer on the hottest setting you have with nothing, but bleach in the tub. This will sanitize the tub and drain lines. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times to get the problem under control. It is recommended to run a sanitary (or cleaning) cycle periodically to keep the washer clean. Leave the door OPEN when not in use to prevent mildew from forming inside the wash tub and rubber boot. If you have a serious mildew problem and cleaning does not resolve it, you may have to replace the door boot.

Post back and let know. I can provide step-by-steps instructions on how to replace the CCU. Steps on how to replace the door bellow (rubber boot) are posted under my profile under "Tips and Tricks". I hope this helps you.

Apr 14, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Kenmore Elite Washing Machine leaking water


Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:

CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.

1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.

2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.

3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.

4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.

I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.

HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.

I hope this helps you...

Feb 20, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My washer wont empty out while spining.


The drain line is probably clogged. Maybe that a small sock or other piece of clothing get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump. To remove it from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub and try to remove the clothing through the port. Good luck

Aug 04, 2007 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Keeps fusing


It seems like something is prevent tub's free movment. Try to spin the clothes tub by hand and look for a free movment. In case it doesn't move smoothly,maybe that a sock or other piece of clothing get between the clothes tub and the outer tub and prevent its clear spin. In this case it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump.Remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. In case it clean there, check the outer tub port- open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then,try to remove the clothing through the port. Be aware you should disconnected the power cable before starting your tests !! Good luck !!!

May 23, 2006 | Hotpoint Aquarius WMA56 Front Load Washer

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