I opened this gun as the shaft was not tight enough. Replaced it with one from an identical gun and put it all back together, was simple enough. Now both guns have the identical issue, air leaks from the trigger area. There are no seals that I can see and am wondering what the problem is?
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: CH TLX102 Air Drill Air Leak
THe drills normally have one of two types of mechanisms at the trigger. An "O" ring or a small steel ball. Since you didn't see any rings or other seals, you need the ball. It is about 1/8" diameter and it is held in place by a spring.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Roger, what PSI are you running on your portable compressors? Sometimes these guns will not operate properly if there is not enough air pressure. I have seen some guns that if the air pressure is too low that they will not seal up properly and act as if there is a leak. If you can adjust your portables make sure that your setting is at least what the minimum setting for your gun calls for and then adjust upwards if you need it to drive deeper. Hope this helps.
I dont recall that there are any orings in the head area. Large leak from head area is caused by cylinder not retracting and seating against headvave. Small leak is usually gaskets between headvalve or cracked tube above headvale or rubber tube seal not seating against body of the gun. Test cylinder movement. Remove the head and push down cylinder, the cylinder should retract. If the cylinder is already down, pull it up. If the cylinder is very hard to pull up, most likely orings too tight or body of gun is warped. If the cylinder moves up with just little force, reinstall head and retest. If small leak, remove head and remove headvalve and look very closely for cracks in the head and tubes.
It is a keyless chuck. Put the drill in reverse (chuck should spin to the left when viewed from the back) and hold the main body area of the chuck with your hand while slowly running the drill. The chuck will open (unless it is broke) and release the bit. You do the opposite (slowing running the drill in forward) for tightening a bit in the chuck.
Could be that the driver is not returning to top of the cylinder. Easy test, when the gun miss fires, remove air line, with thin metal, insert thru nose and push driver up. Retest gun. If driver was down a bit then nails will not feed. Remove head and check that driver oring is making good seal, lubed, and is not too tight or bent. Also check that lower bumper is not cracked or missing pieces. Replace parts as needed. If driver was all the way up, clean rails and pusher assembly with wd40 and follow with good cleaning with air. If pusher and rails working properly, must be problem with bad batch of nails, slightly thicker or wider head not allowing nail to easily slide. Open nose latch and check that nails slide thru easily.
Yes a second washer would be acceptable as long as the splines on the shaft are at or slightly above the top of the pulley but it shouldn't be needed as long as the nut is torqued tight enough. Make sure the pulley is in good shape and the nut gets torqued down properly or the splines will tear up. There should have been a set of instructions with the new mandrel that gave the torque spec. Normally I just use a 1/2 inch drive craftsman air impact gun set to full power with about 100# air pressure. It is a rather large lock nut so it takes a lot of torque. Hope this helps. Please vote yes, thank you.
this will be one of 2 problems either the four bolts that connect the back plate are not tight enough (if the air is coming out of the seal) or if you open the back plate and look in the back you will see a sort of plastic diaphram in this is a spring that will have snapped i know because im online now looking for a spring for 2 of mine at the moment
Have you traced the exact spot of the leak? I will assume you have not. the reason it's important is because if there is a crack in the o-ring seat there is nothing you can do. So trace the leak. Try a small amount of auto air conditioner leak detector or something similar even ink from an ink pen will work. Place it in the air inlet, hook up your air line and trigger your gun for a 10 to 15 seconds. disassemble your trigger and see if you can locate the offending spot. Though this method has worked for me in the past, it's not something I would normally recommend. However the gun you have is to expensive to just write off. The alternative is to contact Iwata and seek help. Good luck.
first thing i would do is to make sure this gun needs oil .most of your newer guns don't take oil.and if this is true with your gun you will need to rinse all of it out, hear is a place you can get a schematic. http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/cgi-bin/schematic.cgi/portercable/BN200
I would agree with rowdy that the make and model number are essential to getting the right parts - If you have that information, just find a dealer that supports your brand. That being said, air leaking out the trigger area is likely to be an O-Ring or Seal problem. Pneumatic staplers have O-rings and Seals that need to be replaced periodically. Most have rebuild kits available that contain all the O-Rings and Seals that need to be replaced. Many staplers have O-rings and/or Seals on or near the trigger shaft that can wear and allow air to leak out