Question about Mitsubishi WS-55511 55" Rear Projection Television

2 Answers

I have a Mitsubishi WS-55511. My red convergenge is off.

I have a Mitsubishi WS-55511. My red convergenge is way off on the right and left side of the tv. I went into the advanced adjustment but the vertical lines won't adjust. I know I need to replace the IC and the resisters, thanks to your previous post. I was wondering if you had the directions to do so or a schematic that I can go by.

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 14,553 Answers

I am posting a photo of the resistors here: I will post the instructions in several parts(too long to post here in one time)

Resistors:

I have a Mitsubishi WS-55511.  My red convergenge  - 13ae8e9.jpg

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

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    SD Tech Dec 11, 2009







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    HERE is what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the
    internet or at local electronics stores)





    One new: STK-393-110 CONVERGENCE IC


    One good soldering iron


    Solder


    De soldering braid or wick


    Liquid flux


    Heat sink compound (grease)


    Denatured alcohol


    One small clean toothbrush


    One electric screw gun to REMOVE screws





    Turn the set on and examine the picture for how the
    Convergence looks bad---when you are done examine it again---once in a great
    while you will get and install a new IC that is bad. Remember this when you
    have finished—if the convergence is still bad but different from what you
    started with you may have installed a new I.C. that was bad. Turn the Set off.









    1. Unplug
      set.

    2. Remove
      back cover.

    3. Remove
      front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.

    4. Remove
      the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame
      that hold the chassis down.

    5. Where
      all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a
      diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside
      edge, remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward
      and to the left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them
      aside.

    6. Look
      carefully at main board in center of the set.

    7. You
      will find a number of screws hold it into the plastic frame.

    8. Towards
      the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed) you
      will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of round holes punched in
      it.

    9. Remove
      both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it
      by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board
      out—handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores
      the set’s memory of adjustments.
      Set it aside

    10. At
      this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few inches---If
      it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side near the
      front of it. Some sets have the
      latches on the left or right side—black plastic tabs that lift up.

    11. Usually
      the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and one
      almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of
      them out before you remove the board.




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    1. When
      you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below
      the lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.

    2. There
      are a number of plugs on the board.
      Some of these sets have a small circuit board located at the very
      front of the middle board with plugs going into it, release the tabs at
      the bottom and pull the board up and out of your way. Now you should see 5 white fold over
      plugs---three on the left edge and two on the right---do not touch them
      yet.

    3. With
      the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the
      front edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of pins
      so you cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with letters
      that are also marked on the board.
      There is another 2 wire plug mid way to the right side of the
      board.

    4. Now
      the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over and
      2 more on the right side. You need
      to do this carefully---with a small flat bladed screwdriver pull up on one
      end until each comes loose(the reason we removed the board under the
      shield and the plastic piece (there usually is also a plug under it that
      you need to unplug) is to make this part more easy.

    5. Once
      you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure
      you have not left any plugs still attached to the board.

    6. Pull
      the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release
      wires on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle
      them---take your time).





    Note the very large metal Heat
    sink in the middle board towards the front; if you look from the front of the
    set thru the inspection plate you will see a metal plate that holds it to the
    heat sink----there is one screw to remove here---two ways to get it out: you
    can remove it from the front of the set or what I do is use a short Philips and
    get it from the back by touch. Get it
    out and remove the metal plate and set aside.






    1. From
      the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front
      edge of the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a
      wire with a connector on it. This
      is the reason you need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical
      to the others and go thru the circuit board into the plastic frame where
      it is mounted.

    2. You
      should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes
      you may need a putty knife to break the IC chip loose from it) Set it
      aside and look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the
      identical brass colored screws.
      Move any plugs clear of the board.
      There are 2 or 3 tiny plastic tabs at the front edge of the board;
      push them and lift the board up from the frame---do it slowly and if you
      missed any screws you will find it binds somewhere. The board lifts up front and is tucked
      into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the plugs remove it
      from the set. You are halfway home.




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    1. With
      the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in
      front of the STK IC; if any of them look somewhat white in the middle you
      need to replace them—they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check them with a
      multi-meter just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all even if
      they look good (saves having to pull the board out a second time). They are protection in case some part of
      the IC shorts. If the resistors are
      all good you need to un-solder the STK.

    2. With a
      good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid—radio
      shack has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most
      electronics stores sell this. These
      sets all use lead free solder and it may not be easy to unsolder without
      the flux put on it first.

    3. Once you
      have unsoldered and removed it take some denatured alcohol with a tooth
      brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK was soldered in—this
      gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the way. Let the board
      dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if you have to, use the
      de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the board where the IC
      came thru—clean again with alcohol if you need to—the cleaner the surface
      the better and faster the new solder will attach.









    1. Install
      the new IC---make sure all the pins are straight or you will have problems
      getting it in—with it in place hold it and turn the board over and solder
      the pins at either end to keep it there; AT THIS POINT APPLY MORE SOLDER
      FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC IN! Straighten it if you did not get it
      upright and finish soldering all the pins.
      When you are done, with a good light take a very close look at all
      the pins to make sure they are all soldered and not touching another
      pin. You can also use the denatured
      alcohol again to clean all the pins on the IC you just soldered.

    2. With the
      IC soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge first
      into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do not
      hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board
      gently push down until the tabs on the front edge engage—the board must be
      perfectly straight to go in correctly.

    3. With a
      putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink
      (careful—this stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with
      denatured alcohol. You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to
      the board; you will find if you do it now it is easier to reach them with
      the heat sink removed---put all of the main plugs back and leave the fold
      over plugs for last. If you had the
      model with the small plug in circuit board on the front of the main
      board—install it after you have installed the plugs in front of it.




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    1. A note
      about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you
      have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal
      pins will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even
      pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat
      bladed screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.

    2. Presuming
      you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in
      place,---any wires or cables you moved to get room you should now put back
      into the plastic hold off that contained them—clean up!

    3. Before
      you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and you
      can get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux
      and solder) This grease is the reason the original IC failed—after several
      years it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast enough---the grease
      is for quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal heat sink.

    4. Now:
      if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put
      them back—it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw
      gun and to strip the screw that goes into the heat sink.

    5. Place
      the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold
      it to and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening
      them by hand works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet
      back to the middle screw.

    6. Replace
      the metal plate that goes across the chip and hold it in place until you
      get the screw back in (it has a tab that engages into a little hole) once
      you get the plate screw back in tighten it down firm (it holds the IC
      tight to the heat sink).

    7. With
      the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by
      plugging it in and install the metal box over it and the screws front and
      back by hand.

    8. Check
      that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.

    9. Replace
      all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.

    10. Install
      the diagonal plastic piece you removed and by hand replace the 4 screws
      that hold it in place.

    11. Take a
      good look now to make sure all the plugs are back in place and installed
      correctly.




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    1. Slide
      the entire Chassis back into place.

    2. Before
      you replace the screws that hold the chassis down (usually 2 or three long
      screws) turn the set on and see what you have----if it comes on and looks
      fairly normal you are ready to proceed.

    3. Replace
      the slide board (diagonal) you removed and wipe the three large lens with
      a lens cloth or clean with a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on
      it---if the lens are dusty the picture will be a bit darker and dull
      looking. Don’t worry about the mirror,
      it usually is ok.

    4. If the
      set has come on and looks ok, replace the long screws that anchor the
      chassis and put the back cover on the set.

    5. At
      this point you have two choices---you can go into the customer menu and
      select CONVERGENCE---there will be detailed instructions on screen for the
      center and fine adjustments---MOST Mitsubishi sets need to have the
      convergence adjusted in the regular and then in the HD mode---go to a HD
      channel if you have HD signal and adjust the convergence there.

    6. There
      is a TECHNICAL mode where you can do this but it requires knowing a number
      sequence by MODEL number---it adjusts just like the customer mode but IT
      SAVES THESE ADJUSTMENTS INTO THE SET’S MEMORY. Adjusting in the customer menu may not
      save the adjustments—if the set gets unplugged it will go back to whatever
      it was before. In the Technical
      mode you enter by pushing MENU and a 4 digit number code for the model you
      have and then pushing enter, you exit by pushing HOME on the remote
      twice—all this is done with the original Mitsubishi remote—you need to
      have an original working remote for this.

    7. If you
      were careful and lucky all went well and you now have a working set. The
      new IC should be good for 3 to 5 years and many go 8 years.

    8. If you
      had any problems recheck everything you did in the process to make sure
      you missed nothing----take your time and usually it works fine.

    9. I have
      done this hundreds of times and usually it is easy---it sounds a little
      complicated but after you do it once it gets easy---!




  • SD Tech
    SD Tech Dec 11, 2009

    Copy and paste the instructions and ignore the Normal false part--it appears there because the document was typed in Microsoft word. Take your time and let me know if you need help or have questions---A seller I know on EBAY has this chip for 12 dollars plus 5 shipping--where I buy all mine from.

    Here is a photo of the Chip for you---If you have not done so rate the other solution and this one as I do this here for free. SD TECH

    STK-393-110



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  • Contributor
  • 22 Answers

You guys can go ahead and buy our Convergence Repair Service for MITSUBISHI HDTVS Projection TVS.
Why buying repair kits and messing up your board when you can buy our services for almost the same money?
just go to ebay search and type in item #230735864835.

Thanks for looking and doing business with us.

Posted on May 31, 2012

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1 Answer

Where is the dm board for ws-55511 located


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