I am making a uv light box & have a blacklight fluro tube, starter & ballast like the one in the link below. I was after a wiring diagram for this arrangement. The light box consists of 6 units of the above. I would wire it up and then get an electrician to check the finished product to make sure it is safe http://www.bltdirect.co.uk/ballast1.htm Tridonic.atco ec15 ballast any help appreciated.
PS, I know this is not a kitchen appliance, but at least it's electrical - the closest match i could find.
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Besides the regular fuse your microwave has two thermal fuses - one is
attached to the magnetron tube (called the magnetron Thermal Cut Off or
TCO) and the cavity TCO (usually located under the air ducts on the left
side of the microwave). If you have the wiring diagram (usually
supplied with the microwave) you can find them there. Unfortunately the
model number you provided is incomplete and I'm not able to find the
wiring diagram for your microwave.
If your old light was all plastic, as I suspect it was, there was nothing to ground. Your new light evidently is all or part metal. Fasten all the green/copper wires together and make sure the metal bar inside, if one, is also connected. Use a wire nut to make the connections. My preference is to attach a separate wire to the metal mount bar and then fasten all three ground wires together using the wire nut.
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First, turn off power to the rangehood. Check the contact resistance of the light switch(es) with an ohmmeter. It should be less than 0.1 Ohms. If you get a substantially higher resistance in the on position, the switch contact is burned out. Also, inspect the wiring harness connector and the connections to the light fixtures. If they show signs of overheating, the connection resistance is too high. You can try polishing the connector contacts to remove oxidation. I use a pencil eraser for mild cases and a non-metallic dry scouring pad (3M Scotch-Brite) for more severely tarnished contacts. In the worst case it will be necessary to replace the terminals or connector.
According to the drawing for this series on the Qasair website, the unit uses fluorescent lamps rather than the halogen lamps referred to in the lamp installation instructions. If this is true, it is likely the ballast has failed (if the lamps have separate switches, they probably have separate ballasts also). If the original ballast model is no longer available, make sure the replacement has at least as high a maximum temperature rating as the original. This is especially critical for electronic ballasts. You can extend the life of the new ballasts by making sure the fans are running before turning on the lights - this should reduce the ambient operating temperature inside the hood.
There are three types of fluorescent 48" bulbs t 12, t8, and t5. they are not interchangable. if you have a fixture that has a t12 type ballast, it will not light up the t8 bulbs. you have to change the ballast to a t8 style. just to clarify, the number stands for 10ths of an inch in diameter on the bulb. a t12 is 1.2 inches, a t8 is .8 inch and a t5 is .5 inch.
The red light comes on due to a failure to detect the right intensity of light into the controller board. The LDR- light dependentt resistor - is fixed on to the cylinder which has the UV light. Hence the unit is clogged and the light intensity has dropped. You will need to open , clean and reset for the fault to go .Please take the top cover, the glass tubings and the UV lamp out very carefully not to damage.
If the fault is still persisting then the main board is faulty, sometimes the driver transistors are defective and will not output the voltage to the lamps. Please check this out and I am sure it will work. The service centres normally replace boards even if a transistor is faulty.... so your are right.
I hope my advice helps.
Tell me what you are wanting to accomplish. Are you wanting to run each fan off a separate switch in the same duplex box? The reason I ask is because you are using 12/3 wire to the fans. If you are just going to have 2 switches then you are only going to have power to each fan from each switch. Therefore there is no need to run 12/3 wire. 12/2 is all that is needed and you would simply tie the fan and light wires to that one power source at the light/fan. Now if you are wanting to have a switch for the light and another switch for the fan at each location then that will take 4 switches. You can buy double stack switches and have 4 switches in a double gang box. Is this new construction or old? Please explain what you are wanting and I will be more than happy to explain how to wire it.
Your signs point to a failed power tube. First though, does it defrost? If it does it is an electrical control problem. If it does not defrost, do the following.... With the power unpluged you may want to remove the outer cover, ( screws at back ), and locate a shiney metal box. That box is shielding for the power tube. Get the part # from the tube and replace. You could check price and availability at www.avnet.com . Make sure you replace all of the shielding exactly the way you found it. VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!
its on the side of the magnetron tube, remove the outer cover,MAKE SURE to DIS-CHARGE the HI-VOLTAGE capacitor, its round appx. 3/4" round with 2 tab connections for wires remove 2 small screws and replace
My microwave was totally dead. Things I discovered:
1) There is an easily replacable fuse accessed by taking off the top front vent cover (two screws on top, gently massage off) and then the inside plastic grill. UNPLUG before doing this!
2) Pop off two wires on either end of fuse holder for safety. Then pop out fuse and replace.
For more extensive help, there is an evelope with a wiring diagram inside the case on the inside wall! Very helpful when diagnosing the surface lamp problem (I forgot to plug the ballast back in when I closed up the bottom).