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Goodman heating element does not light

My goodman heating element is not coming on. Can anyone help?

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  • DGlenn Jan 20, 2008

    I can hear the heater come on , stay on for about 30 seconds, go back off and come back on again, but no heat blows out of the heating vents in the house.

  • Jim Matthews Feb 24, 2008

    I can't get any heat and there is no pilot light which I don't understand. What do I do?



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The flame sensor is not sensing flame. Inspect the system as it is tying to start and see if the flames are traveling to all burners and hitting the sensor. If not, clean the burner flame rail (the trough the allows the flame to travel from one burner to the next) or if it is hitting the sensor, clean the sensor with steel wool and check all connections from the sensor to the control board.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008


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Goodman heat strip when t stat switched to call for heat the heat strip won't come on n it flashes on the stat calling for heat n never come on only cool air

Is this a heat package inside a Goodman air handler? If so, it is probably at least a 10kw (two element) unit and it sounds like the first stage is not coming on. Of course it could also be a 15 or 20 kw heat package with multiple heat stages, I have no way of knowing.

Sometimes the second and subsequent heating elements operate off of the 'sequencer' of the previous stage. Not always though. If its a regular furnace it should have a terminal strip with R W G Y and C on it. With the thermostat calling for heat, check for voltage (hopefully you have at least a cheap DVOM) between W and C. If 24 vac is present, find the first stage sequencer by looking at the schematic on the air handler door. Follow the wire on W1 in the diagram to the sequencer. After locating the sequencer, check for voltage across the coil....which should be the same as W and C. If there is 24vac there and it has been there for 45 seconds, the sequencer switch should be closed which then energizes the heating element. Without an 'amprobe' (clamp on ammeter) it is difficult to determine if current is flowing through the heating element.

If you can verify that the first stage element now has 240 volts across it, but there is still no heat about all you can do is turn off the power ---------- (IMPORTANT!!!!!!)-------- and remove the high voltage wire from one end of the element and use an ohmmeter (if you are lucky enough to have one) to verify that the heating element is in fact good or not. Resistance shown on the ohmmeter shows it to be good, no resistance shows it to be open and possibly the culprit.

Of course in series with the element is always a 'high temperature cut out' that could be causing the element to not heat. The same technique is used to check and verify each sequencer and element in the furnace. Its a whole lot easier if you have an amprobe.

Remember you are in a high voltage environment which is very dangerous to the untrained individual. Do not attempt this if you are nervous around electricity !!!!!

There is a whole lot more than can be written in a concise manner but this may get you in the ballpark....
You should befriend an HVAC guy.....

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FIRST i would use a multi meter and check elements for power. one or more may not be working. SECOND iwould check sequenser . also look for burnt wires at element and throughout. probably sequensor they are usually under 20 dollars. the wires on very bottom of sequensor should have 24 volts when heat is on.

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Put meter probes at in put terminal of the element if you read 220volts that mean your relay is good. if you got it there use amp meter on one leg of that element. You should read some amp draw there but if there is no amp draw it mean the element broke.

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