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Re: wont heat above 58 degrees
Not knowing where you live or what the average temp is, it's tough to help you. If I may assume that the heater used to heat just fine and now it is not, I would look at either not enough gas supply (bad gas regulator at meter or tank), or the temperature probe is not giving the circuit board the correct reading. Remove the left side panel against the wall and look for a yellow wire with a black rubber tip. Take an ice cube and place it on the probe. The heater should turn on. Now pinch the probe with your hand. Your body heat will eventually tell the unit to shut off. If it has no effect, you will need a new probe (they call it a thermister). Have your gas company check the gas pressure and make sure it is within spec. The WTA model has some programming that may have scrambled. Reset the set temperatures by following the manual or going to Rinnai.us to view one. Hope this helps.
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One gallon when applied to a horizontal wall will cover 820 sq. ft. above 87 degrees F. OAT, standard humidity, MSL. thirsty , smooth surface and a way to measure and maintain a 1 mil thickness, in-doors and oil based paint, will skin over as it dries. latex will measure to 1200 sq. ft. @95* F.
There are alot of factors when dealing with this problem. Heat Load ( Typical A/C unit is designed with a split of 20 degrees farenheit.) If you measure the temperature leaving the discharge registers, the temperature should be around 20 degrees colder than the air entering the return air grille (Filter Location). Also your unit seems to be a 3 ton; In which this system is designed for roughly 450 sq. ft. per ton and can go as high as 550 sq. ft. on newer homes with more than adequate insulation values. On older homes with minimual insulation the 400- to 450 sq.ft. rule per ton should be observed. Another reason could be that the units needs servicing like a dirty condenser coil or evaporator coil, improper refrigerant charge, etc can all be issues that can result in your problem.
Finally, most typical units or designed to maintain a home 20-25 degrees below outside temperature. Example 95 degrees outside, inside should not be set lower than 70 to 75 degrees, and the 5 degree range depends on the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating/Ratio ) of your unit. Hope I was helpful in giving you some direction in things to look for to resolve your problem.
Judging by it's Btu Output, it should comfortably handle heating up to 300 square feet. This is based on the room having average insulation and average energy efficient measures in place. All houses are different, so what may work outstandingly in one person's home, may only do an average job in another''s.
Rinnia makes a good product, but it's longevity is based on how wall the consumer maintains the product. No heater is maintenance free. They all require at minimum, of annual service. Usually, in the Fall, prior to the heating season.
First off - the 'rule of thumb' is 600' per ton of Air Conditioning. In other words your old unit is a 2 ton unit. So - 2 tons x 600' = 1200'. As you can see if you install the 2.5 ton unit - you will be installing a AC that 'could' cool a 1500 sq ft house (2.5 x 600' =1500 sq ft.). Slightly more than what you need; and the 3.5 ton unit is 'way to big,' (3.5 x 600' = 2100 sq ft.).
Note: fyi - many in the AC business will sometimes refer to tonnage in btu's, i.e. 1 ton = 12000 btu - hence a '2 ton unit' can also be referred to as a 24000 btu unit and vice versa.
So... from the above - you can easily see that "2 tons" of Air conditioning is what is required to cool the 'average' home of 1100 sq ft. "roughly speaking."
Note: it is always best to have a professional 'size' your cooling/heating needs.
One of your questions was could you 'mix tonnage?'
The answer is 'usually you don't mix the tonnage of your outside/inside units.' However, professionals sometimes do (mix the tonnage) in certain situations, and installing a 2.5 ton outside unit with an existing 2 ton inside unit is often done, however, there are some 'tech issues' here and - I would "again" recommend that you call a Service Tech to help you with the sizing/mixing of your cooling/heating needs.
Mark is right 5 tons is way too big and you are probably icing up. Even here in Az we size units to no less than 500 sq. ft. per ton and more like 700 sq. ft. per ton. What is the make and model number of your unit? I'm a Goodman Authorized Contractor so I should have most info on hand.
do you live there? if so here are the rules for setting back temperature: do not lower the temperature more than 8 degrees F from the temperature you want it when your there, setting it back for periods of less than eight hours is also somewhat futile. Due to laws of thermo-dynamics the heat required to recover from more extreme setbacks or shorter periods of time exceeds the savings acquired by taking said action. As to your question directly there are no reasons why your thermostat should not function at any setpoint temperature that it is allowed to set to (45 normally being the lowest) if it does not function below 58 degrees it has a failure and should be replaced before it fails completely. Suggest a Robertshaw or Braeburn brand thermostat, Honeywell quality has slipped over the past decade to unacceptable levels. Unless your considering a Hunter in which case buy another Honeywell.
the unit runs all the time because of the fan (ventilation motor)-but it is not working on cooling or heating all the time - The ventilation motor pushes the air from the room through the machine and when the termostat is reading that you set it up for cooler air or warm air it will turn on the air conditioning part or the heating part of the machine-it is very good system actually