I have ice or water at the edge of my windows. I keep adjusting the temp and the humidifier and nothing is working. When the sun is out the south side of the house windows clear up. When it becomes dark the moisture comes back. Terri
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Re: I have ice or water at the edge of my windows. I
You may need new windows, you should keep your house between 35 and 45% humidity but if your windows are condisating on the inside and that condinsation is freezing then either turn off the humidifier or get new windows
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Really not efficent to run a heat pump at those temperatures. Below freezing is not good for the compressor in the outside unit. The humidity in the house with the low temp. is causing the condensation on the windows to freeze. Kinda like an air conditoner does in the summer without the freezing humid air from the house goes over the cold a/c coil and the moisture condensates on the coil running down to drain pan. raising the temp. in the house and lowering the humidity should help. I would also recommend running the electric heat in low outside teperatures.
If you used the plastic tubing to the humidifier(I recomend copper) there should have been a little brass tube with a flare on it. This goes in the plastic tubing to grip the the sleeve better. See if this helps
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
Install new water panels yearly. On the new panel make sure that the painted dot on the edge of the panel is on the top when you install it.
Always clean the distribution tray and the frame. Make sure the notch on the edge of the distribution tray faces away from the furnace. Make sure the humidifier was installed level. Keep the drain tube opening clear. Insure there is no blockages in the drain tube.
1. Remove tank from base. Turn upside down and unscrew filling cap. Fill tank with clean, cool, distilled, or tap water. Water temp should NEVER be too hot or too cold. Return tank to base and let sit for a few minutes. Be sure the filling cap of the tank is tightened firmly.
2. Plug power cord into a 110-120V AC wall outlet only. Turn power switch to "on" position. Power light will illuminate. Turn mist nozzle until desired level is being released. Aim nozzle away from furniture and walls.
3. Always turn humidifier off when water runs* out. Unit will continue to operate when tank is empty. *Humidifier will run up to 12 hrs on low; 6 hrs on high.
DO NOT LET WATER SIT IN TANK FOR LONG. THIS CAN ENCOURAGE BACTERIAL GROWTH.
Place unit on level surface away from direct sunlight.
DO NOT ADD MEDICATION OF ANY TYPE INTO THE NOZZLE, BASE, OR WATER TANK.
ALWAYS LEAVE ROOM DOOR PARTLY OPEN. DO NOT MOVE, TILT, OR EMPTY WHILE OPERATING.
Mild bleach and water solution for cleaning, never detergent.
Clean every 3rd day during use. Clean after long storage
Humidity varies from room to room. Aim for 30 - 50% relative humidity. If windows/ walls fog or frost, reduce mist intensity. If room too humid, ventilate by opening door or window; adjust mist intensity.
To both, these sound like de-humidifiers. Is your goal to reduce humidity and dry your room? If so, if the humidity is low, then the de-humidifier has no work to do. A cheap battery or dial humidistat will help. If not, check for a clogged filter. No air moving spells no de-humidification. Also check for a frozen evaporator coil. Same as above but this requires repairs. Electric dehumidifiers are similar to refrigerators and window AC's. With the fan running, adjust the setting to a lower humidity setting until you hear the compressor kick in. If it does not even at the lowest setting, check the space relative humidity to make sure it has work to do. If it does, repairs may be as simple as cleaning electric contacts in controls or as bad as a refrigerant leak or compressor failure. If its bad, better to replace. A humidifier adds moisture. If you have a humidifier and want to keep the static off your clothes and keep your nose from drying out, fill the tanks with water and add biocide. Please do not view my comments as patronizing. Even seasoned engineers have difficulty grasping humidification.
Yes you will want the out door sensor. The reason why is it is going to read the average temp outside and will adjust what you hum is producing due to the temp outside, that is so you dont cause condensation on your window. You can run it in manuel or auto but i would strongly reccomend to run it in auto.