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The oven ignition system seeems to have stopped working. The oven fan is likewise, but note that the oven light is still ok. Also note that the oven burner still ignites if a taper is used together with the ignitor operating lever.

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  • jcjb Dec 10, 2009

    Thanks VToolman for your prompt advice. Replacing the ignitor does sound doable, if I can get one.



    However, this appliance was made in Australia 17 years ago by Craig and Sealey, a company that's now part of the global Electrolux empire, and a local serviceman has told me the Empire's policy is not to support product beyond 10 years! So I'm not very hopeful that your Sears will be able to help.



    But anyway, the C & S operating guide tells me this cooker is an 094 Series, sales code GEDAFS, and the cooker itself is labelled: model 094C2F20WT, serial 2002 5746 71.



    Seasons greetings from Tasmania, Australia :)

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  • Kitchen Ranges Master
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I dont know if this will help you are not but Call Encompass Parts tell them your Make and give them your model number if they have it in stock you can get new ignition 1-800-638-3328

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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  • Master
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Hello JcJb, All signs point to the ignitor being faulty and in need of replacement. Without a working electric ignitor, the gas will not light and thus the oven will not work properly.

Unfortunately, without a brand and model number it will be difficult for anyone to provide you with the replacement part you'll need. However, here's a link to www.searspartsdirect.com that you can enter in the full model number of your range and get a complete parts listing and line drawing showing all the parts for your particular oven.

The key to replacing the ignitor is to disconnect the oven from the electrical outlet. Then with the oven racks removed, you should be able to remove the defective ignitor (held in place with one or two screws) and then you can remove the ignitor and disconnect the two wire leads from it. Some ovens have the ignitor held in place from the back side of the oven, so you'll have to check the line drawing to see which method your oven employs to secure the ignitor. Either way, it is relatively easy to change out yourself.

Simply connect the new ignitor to the wire leads and reinstall it into the oven. Plug the power cord in and give it a test.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

  • Mark
    Mark Dec 10, 2009

    Hello again JcJb,



    Did some searching and it appears that there are some replacement parts available, but they aren't listed with a cross reference by model numbers of the stoves/ovens. However, they do have pictures, which should make it pretty easy to locate the correct replacement part.



    Some of the parts are universal, so you might have to adapt it for your particular oven.



    Here's some of the ignitors I found (on page 11 of the brochure, page 13 of the elecronic file)



    http://www.reece.com.au/new/pdf/products...



    Please note that the contact phone numbers for Reese gas spare parts are located on page 51 and 52 of the electronic document.



    Give the various ignitors a look and see if one of them is close to what you have. You can also give the folks at Reese a call, as they might have a more complete cross reference list with the Craig and Seeley model numbers, as most appliance manufacturers used third party components to build their models.



    Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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The way the ignition system in most of today's ovens work is like this:

1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
2. The igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 - 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.


NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That's why you typically don't hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) - needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) - needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn't light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it's an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn't light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn't produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won't light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we're going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner's manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn't shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 - 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.


Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models.

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