Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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I have a kenmore model number 110 24622300 It washes the clothes but does not spin out the clothes very well anymore, I even opened the lid and pressed the button and it doesn't always spin quick and my clothes are pretty wet I even tried smaller loads and still same problem

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First, see the Sears Parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+24622300+

If it does wash, drain and spin but not very well, the problem is likely in one of two places.

If you look at the schematic for the Brake, Clutch and Gearcase, you'll see that these washers use a clutch to start the spinning of the drum..

It's possible that the bands on the clutch are worn and the transmission cannot get full power to the drum.

The other, and more likely possibility is that the Motor Coupler is worn or damaged and the motor cannot get full power to the transmission. That is the first thing I'd check.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

The other possibility is the clutch and for that you'll have to pull the transmission to check it.

See the following if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You DON'T have to remove the agitators in order to pull the transmission..

If the clutch is worn, Sears has a "rebuild kit" for the clutch instead of having to buy a full assembly.


Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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