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With what signal did you try? Maybe your signal source (DVD/TV or radio) didn't contain any sounds for the center channel. Go to the Setup menu, Speaker setup / Manual setup and find there item called "Test tone". It will output a test tone to each speaker individually (you will see on LCD which speaker is being tested at each moment). If you will hear a sound from the center now, there is no issue and center is working fine, just your source didn't contain any sound for the center.
If it doesn't work, then either you have faulty cable, faulty speaker or faulty center output of the receiver. - Try connecting the center speaker to different output of receiver (this will test if speaker is OK). - Try connecting working LEFT speaker to left output with CENTER cable (this will test if cable is OK). - Try connecting working LEFT speaker with working cable to the CENTER output (this will test the output of receiver if OK - but use the Test Tone from Setup).
Can you swap the left and right speakers to isolate the speaker from the source as the problem?
Have you tried switching the various plugs around to isolate if anything comes out to the Left Channel, ever or if any other speaker plugged in as the Left works at all? Turn the volume down and bring it up slowly at first because if you send Subwoofer programming to a speaker not designed for it you may damage it.
If nothing works when plugged in as the Left speaker, maybe the sound card is the problem. Resubmit a question with the source or the PC as the problem
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.
The pb180 has High Input receptacles on the back end. They are marked High Input and identified as Channels 1&2 left/right, and channels 3&4 left/right. You will need to identify all speaker wires coming from your head unit ( left front +&--) , and so on. You will be sending the speaker wires from the head unit to the pb180's High Inputs. In other words, the front left speaker wires(+&-) from the head unit will go to the High Input Channels 1&2 side, left input of the pb180, and so on, so the speaker wires coming out of the head unit will need to be cut. And LABEL all sets of speaker wiresbefore you cut them! Then on the OUTPUT end of the pb180, you will be sending the wires back to the the respective speaker wires which are going to the speakers. So it's out from head unit to pb180 and out from pb180 to speakers.
Hopefully you have the plugs that Pyramid uses for the speaker wire inputs to the amp. If not you have to get creative, and make up terminals to fit into the input receptacles. Maybe a wire terminal from Radio shack will fit those pins..
Also, if you go on line: Google search "Pyramid auto amps" and click on "SEARCH" (upper right hand) of their Web Page. Plug in your model number like this, pb180, and you'll be able to download the manual for this amp. The manual has a full description of the wiring options.
Run out of the stereo output jacks into a separate amplifier and speakers. The amplifier send jack only sends signal from the particular channel it is part of. In other words to get all the signals from all the channels you would need another mixer, amp and speakers. It is easier to use the stereo out which will give you all the signals. If you only use left out or right out make note of where your panpot is set for each channel.
Check to be sure there are no speaker wires touching ground, and that the wires are connected in phase to the head unit.
5 1/4" Doors
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
6" x 9" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
The symptoms you are relaying definately sound like an internal amplifier problem. It is fading in and out for a reason - usually due to heat.
Have you had the radio bench tested (seperate from the car) to eliminate the car as being the culprit?
Since the radio was run with damaged speakers originally, the output or amplifier power supply on the amplifier may be bad.
As an alternative to repairing, I would suggest investing in a small 2 channel amplifier to power the speakers.
The radios claim 50W per channel, but in reality give 12-15W RMS power.
A dedicated amplifier with built in crossovers and gain adjustments will prolong the life of your speakers and add to the tonal qualities of your new speakers. Instead of turning up the volume on the head Unit, and sending out a distorted signal that will blow your speakers, an amplifier will give more CLEAN power to them, so it will be louder at a lower volume setting.
This will bypass the internal amplifier on the radio, and send a Low Level signal ONLY thru a set of RCA cables.
I had this problem too. Finally, after using the MCACC setup and making sure all the speakers worked, I found I had to set the source to FM, TV or whatever from the remote control and set the mode to advanced surround sound using the front panal button on the upper right. Had to fool with them a lot. Good luck.