Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Replacing the main Board to eliminate howling noise

I've read enough complaints and it appears the answer to my problem is to replace the main board in the GE refrigerator. My question is this. Can I easily replace this myself if I order the board from GE? I'm no electrical guru and don't want to find myself w/o a fridge due to my stupidity. It appears I can just pop off the board plug the wires back in and pop it back on. It almost seems to simple. Can I do it?

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Re: Replacing the main Board to eliminate howling noise

I have had a number of these complaints and I have always repaired it by replacing the evap fan motor. It is a much cheaper part, however, its way more difficult to install than the main board. Yes many other techs say it can be resolved with a new main board and yes it is just a matter of plugging the wires in. I would be very interested to see if indeed it does resolve the howling. It will come with an instruction sheet that says you will need to cut a wire from one of the harnesses. Just disregard this if indeed your model is the one that you selected and is fairly new. (PSS26msr). If you would like to take advantage of my employee discount I can send you the part for $100 plus $20 shipping. Just let me know.

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

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Have a ge model # GTH21KBXAWW. The freezer works fine. The bottom half does not keep cold.

Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
  1. Evaporator coils are frosted over
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.
  1. Damper
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.
  1. Thermistor
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.
  1. Temperature control board
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it's not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a freezer that's cold but refrigerator that's not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

Feb 25, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

GE Artica PSS25NGMD Side by Side stopped cooling

Unplug the unit and pull the relay off the compressor and shake it to see if it rattles. If it does, the relay is bad and will need to be replaced. Here is that part to order.
Here is the overload relay that should be replaced also.
Is you pull the relay and it does not rattle, post back the results to me.
Here is a video to help you out.

Feb 09, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My GE side-by-side howls. Model GSL25IGRBBS.

First of all - make sure you route the green grounding wire connector from the board to one of the screws, holding the board cover. If you leave it hanging - you can kill the board if the wire touches some of the board elements.

Second - check what kind of sensors you have in your fridge. There are three of them: one in the fresh food section, and 2 in the freezer.

If any of the sensors has black compound where the wires enter the white plastic cylinder, you'll need to replace it with the newer one: WR55X10025

Locations: One behind the damper cover in fresh food section (far left top corner)
One in the far left bottom corner (small cover with 2 white wires to it)
One (which most likely makes the problem) is on top of the evaporator (coil in freezer section, behind the lower back cover). Ifyou replace any of them - make sure to insulate the splice points with food-grade silicone.

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Bad computer board in back of fridge, unable to control motor speed causing motor to hunt

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Noisey ge side by side

hi thanks for the question that noise is the fan in the replace the fan motor the water disp problem is the little switch inside the freezer door difficult to get at please accept with a positive feed back thanks the appliance doc

Sep 23, 2008 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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My GE side by side refridgerator makes a "howling" sound. Any ideas?

the problem you are having is in the main control board. ge has had a problem with this part causing the fan motor to go into high and low speed which causes the howling noise. unfortunately it is a costly fix, around $125 for the part. if you are savy to changing this part it is a matter of unplgging about 5 connections and replugging them. the new board has an extra set of pin that nothing connects to. READ the instuctions and it is a simple fix, saving about $50-60 in labor costs.

Sep 08, 2008 | GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator

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Howling noise

I found this website about 2 weeks ago. I and read the postings about replacing the control panel. I own the GSS22SGRF SS. This thing was driving me and my wife absolutely insane. We live in a smaller house and the howling noise was so bad we could hear it over the TV at normal volumes. I would have to crank the surround sound to not hear it. They are not kidding when they say it just gets louder. Anyway a year after it has been doing it or about 10 days ago when I ordered the control board the refrigerator stopped dispensing water and ice along with making a clicking sound. When I opened the door the digital temperature setting displays would turn off and on in succession with the clicking noise. I was like great, I just dropped $100 dollars on this control panel and 2 other things are now going wrong with my fridge.
Anyway I get the part on Wednesday and waited for my dad to come over and help me out just in case. We pull out the fridge and I am not kidding but it only took about 10-15 minutes to swap out the panels. All of the wires on this model come with connectors so we didn't have to cut 1 wire, all you had to do was plug them in and set the ground. I could have done it myself, too easy. We plug the thing back in, put it into position and BAM!!! everything is fixed. The water and ice machine are back to normal, not one howling or clicking sound for over 24 hours now. Best $100 I have spent in a while. Would have costed me a $100 just to have someone come out and look at it. I will never buy a GE refrigerator again based on the customer service I got when I called in but if it wasn't for this post I guess I would be out of pocket another $1900 because I was about a day away from throwing this thing in the trash!!!! GE NEEDS TO REALIZE THAT IF THIS PROBLEM IS HAPPENING THIS OFTEN TO STEP UP AND AT LEAST SUPPLY THE REPLACEMENT PART. I GUESS THEY HAVEN'T FIGURED OUT THAT THIS MIGHT NOT COST THEM RIGHT NOW BUT IT WILL COST THEM AT LEAST ONE PURCHASE IN THE FUTURE.

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2 Answers

Howling - Which is the correct fix

I think I have the same problem. The unit is also about 2 years old (GSH25KGRBB). I have an extended warranty. They already replaced the controller card. I see it is the exact part number you have mentioned. It seemed to help for awhile but I think it has gotten worse again. The noise is more consistent after they changed the board. Less revving up to "turbo" mode. Howling is a good description. I can hear it now, on the other side of the house. I would change the fan out. I think they did the board first because it probably is easier even if the part cost is higher. I will probably call them back again. This will be the third time. The first time they just changed the little flapper on the ice dispenser. Otherwise the unit cools and runs flawlessly.

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