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On the blower housing behind the lint filter is a white thermal fuse. Or below the motor is a belt switch that maybe bad. Also remember electric dryer work on 240 volts sometimes you may lose 1 leg of that and have 120 going to the dryer, witch is enough to power the lights but not run the dryer.
check input power for 240 volts, then check the neutral power at all terminations inside the unit for burned off conditions, then check for a bad thermal fuse,hi-limit switch,start switch, or control panel
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier. 2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose. 3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located. 4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
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Remove lower rear panel of m/c, remove the 2 hoses on the pump, disconnect the electric feed to the pump, and depending on how the pump is secured to the base, remove pump.
Connect a 240V supply directly to the pump, it does not matter which way you connect live and neutral as they are both common.to the pump.
Switch on and the pump should run, if you want to test it with water in, remember it is gravity fed, and you are dealing with 240 Volts .BE CAREFUL.
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First question is does the display light up? If so then does the door lock? If the door is locking then the fuse for the washer that is on the back of the dryer hasn't blown. However if door won't lock, then check the fuse to see if it is open. This is a 208/240 volt washer and the display is the only part that doesn't need 208/240 volts. If fuse if find, then check the water screens in the fill hoses and clean them. This may be more of a control unit issue having failed, Hard to tell without knowing age of unit. Hope this helps
If the water does not get hot, I assume the machine does not complete its programme? Since you have changed the stat, AND checked the element I think the timer may be faulty.
OR has a wire burned off in the heater circuit somewhere? You can test for a 240 volt supply at the two ends of the heat element with a meter, or even a 240 volt bulb.
!!BE CAREFUL!! !!OF 240 VOLTS !!
Cant understand how the machine will revolve on the 'spin cycle' & yet you can hear the motor on the 'wash cycle' but yet it doesnt revolve!!
Nomally if the water fills, & the tub revolves without the programmer advancing, its because the heater is not working. ie faulty thermostat, heat element, or maybe a wire burned off in the 'heater circuit'. Check if you have 240 volts at both ends of the heat element, with a meter or 240 volt bulb
!! BE CAREFUL OF 240VOLTS!!