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Electric 30 gallon water heater has a new element and 220V at the element contacts but no hot water? Bradford and white model m230r6ss-incy

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  • dsbinnion Dec 10, 2009

    Didn't work, but Got 220 again at the element contacts, any other suggestions?

  • dsbinnion Dec 10, 2009

    I have installed a new element and a new thermostat - they both test good - there are 220 volts present at the element. Still no hot water.

  • dsbinnion Dec 10, 2009

    Thanks Waynard, I figured it out when i tested across the element contacts and only got 115V.
    The problem is at the service pole not the water heater.
    Dana

  • dsbinnion Dec 10, 2009

    Thanks again!

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  • Master
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Hello, First, if your thermostat has an ECO (High Limit) reset button, turn the power off at the breaker. Press the reset button. Apply power. Here is the procedure to further check the heater: 1. This procedure assumes line voltage, ECO and elements are in working order. 2. Turn power ?ON? to water heater. 3. Set multi-meter to ?Volts AC?. 4. Check across terminals L4 and T2 of thermostat. A) Rated voltage NOT present, Recheck ECO. If ECO is okay, replace thermostat. B) Rated voltage IS present, proceed to next step. 5. Check across element terminals A) Rated voltage NOT present, check wire connections from thermostat to element. B) Rated voltage IS present, Repeat element testing. To test element: Step 1. TURN OFF POWER TO WATER HEATER. Step 2. Remove access cover(s) from front of water heater. Remove insulation and plastic cover from thermostat. Step 3. Disconnect wires from heating element. Step 4. Set multi-meter to ?ohms? setting. Step 5. Touch probes of multi-meter to screw terminals of heating element. Step 6. Reading should be 12.8 ohms (±6%) for a 240 volt, 4500 watt element. If infinity, element is open. Here is the service manual for Bradford White heaters. This covers several models. http://www.bradfordwhite.com/images/shared/pdfs/manuals/238-47104-00A.pdf

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

  • 2 more comments 
  • Wayne Mineard
    Wayne Mineard Dec 10, 2009

    I apologize for the format of my post. This is a system bug that happens occasionally. I believe it is still understandable.



    Thanks for using Fixya.



    Wayne

  • Wayne Mineard
    Wayne Mineard Dec 10, 2009

    OK, by the model # this IS a single element tank, correct?



    Just to verify:



    Incoming black to L1

    Incoming red to L2

    Black to element to T2

    Red to element to L4



    Also, what are the EXACT readings from:



    Grd to element red side

    Grd to element black side

    One probe on red side and one on black side of element



    And....did you fill the tank before applying power?

  • Wayne Mineard
    Wayne Mineard Dec 10, 2009

    Also, if a single element, what is the rating on the side?



    I would also ask that you verify the resistance of the element. Power off and remove wires from the element and measure from one contact to the other.

  • Wayne Mineard
    Wayne Mineard Dec 10, 2009

    I asked about filling the tank before power up because if you power w/o water the element will burn out due to "dry firing".



    I asked about the rating because of it is only a 120V rated element, it will also burn out as soon as power is applied. (Water or no water.)



    Only way to verify the element is good is to ohm it out with the wires disconnected. If it reads infinity it is bad. It should read about 10 to 15 ohms.



    Wayne



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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

Test the thermostat.

The thermostat is tested cutting its contacts and reading Ohms with a multimeter set at Rx1.

A good thermostat will read low or no impedance at room temperature, and will cutoff at limit temperature.

An alternative way to test a thermostat is bypassing it.

Test and eventually replace the thermostat. If thermostat is good check wiring and electronic control.
All test and repair must be done by a trained technician.
Regards.

Posted on Dec 09, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 10, 2009

    If an element get 220V, and the element is good, then the element will warm up.

    If the element does not warm up, then either the element is not getting volts during cycle, or the element circuit is open.


    To check if the element is good read Ohms (impedance), not volts. If impedance is infinite (same as in the air-circuit open) then the new element is still not working. Testing Ohms must be done with one of the two elements contacts not connected.

    If the element is heating up, and water is not being heated, and element and thermostat test good, then it can be a water level switch disconnecting element because it wrongly senses that there is no water, or a faulty electronic control board.

    Water level switches are of two kinds, pressure and membrane switches, and float switches. Both can be tested reading ohm on switch and bypassing them.

    Apart this there is no much to test in a boiler that has a good element and thermostat.


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