Water at door stopped working. water still comes to ice maker. no damage to electronics panel. Ice dispenser, whole and crushed works fine. is there a relay in the water circuit that fails? Or, is a button failure on the front panel more likely?

There should be a plastice hinge cover on the left top hinge on freezer door. Take it off and press the plug together firmly. Try that and let me know, Sea Breeze

Check the evaporator system, that release the cubes, when that does not work the cubes stay stuck inside.

yoiu need to thaw out the rfesevour inside the refrigerator with a haior drier son that the water can flow to the soilinoids and then the ice mAker and dispenser.

Hi

If  The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.

The ice maker is producing ice poorly When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve. 

First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

At least yours is making ice. Mine wount even make ice. While toubleshooting my prob, I notice a metal rod on the bottom of the ice tray. This rod opens and shuts a plastic "trap door" in the tray. The position of that door determines whether the ice is crushed or whole. If the trap door is open the ice falls through the dispenser freely. If the door this closed the ice is force thorugh metal teeth where it is crushed then dispensed. Open the freezer door and take the ice tray out. You should see a hole at the back of the freezer that the metal rod goes through. In that hole there is a plastic square that moves up and down. If the set your dispenser to crushed ice, leave the door open, push in the door switch at the bottom, and press the dispenser. The plastic square does nothing while the motor is turning. That allows the door to stay closed and forces the ice through the metal teeth. If you set the dispenser to whole ice and do the same thing the plastic square is suppose to lift up forcing the door open and letting the whole ice drop freely. The plastic square probably does nothing even if you set it to whole ice. That mean the trap door never opens focing the ice to always get crushed.

Unfortunately, I have no solution because mine works and I had no need to investigate further. I hopes this helps you figure out the problem though

Good Luck.

We had the same problem. When we removed the ice receptical the mechanism that turned the ice make was broken and it stopped the ice from being dispensed. I hope it is that simple for you!

The ice maker water solenoid is dragging the voltage down on the electronic control board. Disconnect the solenoid and see if you can select the ice, crush and water using the panel buttons. If thats working fine then the water valve needs to be changed.

pull the icemaker out, say be one inch, shack it a bit, and jam it back in. We've done that each time we had that problem, before it started to work. The icemaker is designed poorly, my openion, and gets jammed easily each time you use the crushed ice. crushed ice jams the ice crusher, and cloggs the pathway resulting a no ice dispensing situation. Also try using only whole ice cubes, instead of the crushed ice. the less you use the crusher the less you'll have to problem. one last thing. if the ice is sitting in the basket for a while, due to poor ice despensor opening door design, the ice in the basket cloggs together causing the probelm.

Check the following:

Is the freezer door closed completely?

Is the ice storage bin installed correctly?

Is there ice in the storage bin?

Has the ice frozen in the storage bin?

Is ice stuck in the delivery chute?

Has the wrong ice been added to the storage bin? Use only
cubes produced by the current ice maker.

Has the ice melted around the auger (metal spiral) in the
ice bucket? Dump the ice cubes and clean the ice storage
bin.

Is the ice dispenser stalling while dispensing “crushed”
ice? Change the ice button from “crushed” to “cubed.” If
cubed ice dispenses correctly, depress the button for
“crushed” ice and begin dispensing again.

Has the dispenser arm been held in too long? Ice will stop
dispensing when the arm is held in too long. Wait 3 minutes
for dispenser motor to reset before using again.

The ON/OFF switch is located on the top right side of the freezer
compartment.
To turn the ice maker on, slide the control to the ON (left) position.
To manually turn the ice maker off, slide the control to the OFF
(right) position.
NOTE: Your ice maker has an automatic shutoff. The ice maker
sensors will automatically stop ice production, but the control will
remain in the ON (left) position

REMEMBER:

Allow 24 hours to produce the first batch of ice. Discard the
first three batches of ice produced.

The quality of your ice will be only as good as the quality of the
water supplied to your ice maker. Avoid connecting the ice
maker to a softened water supply. Water softener chemicals
(such as salt) can damage parts of the ice maker and lead to
poor quality ice. If a softened water supply cannot be avoided,
make sure the water softener is operating properly and is well
maintained

The Dispenser Lock (on some models)
Your dispenser can be turned off for easy cleaning or to prevent
unintentional dispensing by small children and pets.
NOTE: The lock feature does not shut off power to the product, to
the ice maker, or to the dispenser light. It simply deactivates the
dispenser levers. The ice and water dispensers will not work.
Style 1: Press the LOCK BUTTON to lock the dispenser. Press the
UNLOCK button to unlock the dispenser.
Style 2: Press and hold the LOCK OUT button to lock the
dispenser. Press and hold the LOCK OUT button a second time to
unlock the dispenser.

http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/2261717.pdf

CM, there are 2 things that'd cause this. One is inexpensive, the other is not. First, check the cheap one... That rectangular rubber piece in back of your dispenser area is only a cover for a cantilever device. When you push in on this with a cup, the cantilever swivels back toward you and makes contact with a micro-switch. This switch sends power to the integrated circuit board which, in turn, performs the function you requested (cubed, crushed, water). OK... unplug your fridge. Then use your ears to diagnose this. Push the actuator pad several times in and out and listen for the tell-tale "click click" of the micro-switch. If you hear it clicking, it's good. Plug your fridge back in. Now for the expensive part. If your micro-switch clicks, your dispenser control board is fried and needs to be replaced. (I'm afraid that this is the case because the board controls the light as well as all the other functions.) UNPLUG YOUR FRIDGE BEFORE REPAIRING! To gain access the board, use a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the fascia panel starting at the bottom first. Just begin prying it gently off. Then remove the screws that are holding the board assy in place and gently pull it out. Take note of all of the wiring so you can re-install it correctly. The board number you need is #61005274. Unfortunately, it lists for about $100. A professional repairman would charge you over $200 for the repair, so you're actually saving money here! BTW, we recommend using a Belkin Surge protector for all appliances that utilize electronic controls. (you wouldn't plug you computer directly into a wall outlet, would you?) We regularly use these... http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(a1q3xi45sxgfbzm0qejhei55)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=3115672