Sorry to read about your problem, You have a major failure, I suggest you contact a service company. If you feel like making repairs yourself, i will give you some pointers below.
There are other variations depending on whether the
cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there
will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are
somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:
- Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator
or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the
crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and
can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact.
- Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for
continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
- Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit.
It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test
for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
- Open HV capacitor - see the section: A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately
blow the fuse.
- Open HV diode - see the section:
- Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt,
or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not
an actual magnetron problem.
- Open winding in HV transformer.
- Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage
circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may
have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
- Shorted HV diode -
- Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section:
- Short in certain portions of the HV wiring.
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