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Missing wire putting oven back together, green wire doesn't have a place. it looks to be a ground wire. only wire held together with a flat tipped srew, with very thin threads. Help to know where it may go. RF368LXKB, whirlpool electric range.

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  • together12 Jan 19, 2008

    We found where the wire went, it was originally screwed into the back of the exhaust. it is a ground wire, thank you

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To the body of the range

Posted on Jan 19, 2008

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Replacing the ignitor is not difficult or dangerous. To get at it, you will first take out the racks. Then undo the box-like cover inside the bottom of the oven; the screws face front. Underneath that is a wing-shaped cover, held in place with wingnuts. Remove it.

The pipe that the gas comes out of heads straight back; the ignitor is just to the left. You'll be able to see the wires going out the back of the oven. Remove the plates that hold the tube/ignitor combination.

Once the pipe is free, then get your head out of the oven and pull out the oven so you can see, and get at, the back. On the lower left is a cover, about 12 x 15 or so, held in place by four screws. Remove it.

At this point you can see where the ignitor connects to the orange wires (at least mine are orange) with a plastic connection. Undo that connection.

Viola! You have removed the ignitor! Now, before you forget, make a diagram of everything you did. Put the screws in separate plastic baggies, with paper number tabs that correspond to your drawing. This will greatly help in putting everything back together.

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I moved the latch for my jtp15 ge oven and now it won't open. What do i do to move the latch back over?


The latches on this model oven have a very high failure rate. Once the latch fails it is permanent. To open the door you have to access the control panel to reach the door look. To do this first turn the power to the oven off at the service panel by turning the breaker off.
  • Step 1 Remove the three screws from the control panel. The control panel is on the outside of the oven, above the door handle. Pull the bottom of the control panel toward you, then lift it up. This action will release the control panel cover's tabs.
  • Step 2 The mechanism that operates the door latch during the self-cleaning cycle will be behind a smooth, square plate held in place with two screws. White, black and red wires, as well as a grounding wire, will be protruding from the face of the plate. These wires will be twisted together with other control panel wiring and covered with electrical wire caps.
  • Step 3 Remove the failed part by removing the caps and untwisting the wires. Using an appropriate wrench, extract any screws holding the plate in place. The cylindrical-shaped mechanism will be attached to and behind this plate.
  • Step 4 Visit a store or contact GE at (800) 626-2224 to acquire a replacement part. To reassemble, slide the new mechanism into where the old one was and reattach the plate with the screws. Reconnect the wires by twisting them together and replacing the electrical wire caps.
  • Step 5 Replace the control panel by slipping the top of the panel into its groove and angling the panel downward, dropping the tabs back into the slots. Replace the three screws.
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    How do I remove the oven element on our Belling Synergie XOU252? I have located it no problem but cant work out how to remove? Is it held in place with 2 very very small bolts?


    It all depends on whether the scew heads are flat, or have slots for a screwdriver.
    If no slots , then you are going to have to access the heater from the rear of the outer rear cover of the oven.
    If the screws can be undone from inside, then simply unscrew them, and pull the element out towards you.
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    How are the two top sections held together? I need to get at the wiring.


    I have the Bissell Big Green model 1672 and have used it for many years. Recently, the fan or suction blower began to emit a burnt smell so I shut it off. I had difficulty figuring out how to dissemble the top motor unit. Here is what I found.

    Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

    Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

    The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

    To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

    Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

    Model 1680 has a third switch which feeds power to the floor sweeper. It has its own connection to the green ground and white power and goes through the third switch to connect to black.

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    In a three wire system you have 2 hot wires (black and red) and a neutral (white). the ground is connected to the neutral at the dryer. In a 4 wire system you have the 2 hot wires, neutral, and a ground. (green). The ground is connected with the neutral at the circuit panel. The hot wires at the dryer should be on the outside scres, the neutral should be in the center and the ground should be under the green screw. *****. .

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