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No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.) If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:
Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
If the operation is otherwise normal with the exception of heating food, common causes include; (to diagnose requires discharging of the HV capacitor) if you are inexperienced with working with HV I suggest seeking professional help.
Open thermal protectors or thermal fuses.
Open HV Diode.
Open HV capacitor
Open magnetron filament
Open winding in HV transformer
Defective HV relay
Shorted HV diode
Short or other fault in the magnetron
Short in certain portions of the HV wiring
Replacement Magnetrons (the most likely cause if not charring or defective components are found when troublshooting the small parts, can typically be had for around $45.00 just do a web search for your model number.
Try replacing the "start-run" capacitor. It is the rectangular black box mounted on a tab next to the motor inside the cage, two wires attached (cut them close as close to the capacitor body as possible). Other symptoms include not moving at all with a hum, and getting very hot. The capacitor is a 5% tolerance 8 microfarad rated at 250vac. It doesn't have to be the exact form factor but it does have to be heat rated at or above 70C per design parameters of the fan.
WARNING! Make sure to protect the leads properly because this capacitor is connected directly to the power mains during operation. If one of the leads electrically shorted against the fan housing or cage could cause a catastrophic failure of the fan, and possibly a fire, and possibly give a nasty shock to whoever was switching on the fan at the time.
When you say "Everything works as set" do you mean the microwave appears to function properly, but then doesn't heat?
If the magnetron is new, then the magnetron must not be receiving the required high voltage (2000V or more) from the HV circuit. Make sure you've got 120V to the PRIMARY (don't attempt to measure secondary voltage of the HV transformer without special equipment) of the HV transformer. After that check the HV capacitor and diodes. If these components test OK, then either your HV transformer is bad or your new magnetron is faulty. My experience is that the problem is usually in control circuitry, preventing 120V to the HV transformer, or opens/shorts in the HV components (diodes and capacitors).
Could be a short in the HV system for the magnetron--usually the HV diode. Another possibility is the metal stirrer fan in the waveguide above the oven cavity may have a shorted bearing (plastic). The short occurs internally within the bearing.
The small wires are disconnected at the focus and screen control block, and the large HV cable is disconnected from the HV splitter.you may have to reuse the large red wire if the new flyback doesnt have the HV lead attached. The Hot is the horizontal output transistor its mounted to a aluminum heat sink near the flyback.
You either have a short in the unit somewhere, shorted high voltage section or a bad power supply. The most likely culprit is the high voltage section. If you are familiar with television repair, safety and good with a DMM and soldering iron you should be able to fix it. Check the horizontal output transistor (large transistor on the heat sink around or near the flyback. flyback is generally on the right side of the board and has a large red wire coming out of the top and going to the HV divider block.) If the transistor checks shorted, replace the transistor and flyback. Check all associated resistors and semis for any problems and replace anything out of spec. This should solve your problem. I have seen units with a bad HV block too so you may have to replace it also. If the HOT checks OK or replacing the HOT, flyback and HV block doesn't fix your unit you may or may not have the skills to troubleshoot the power supply and/or look for shorts in the unit. Certainly any charred components would be suspect. If you are not qualified to look any further you will have to have a qualified repair tech look at your unit. Good luck and be safe.