I have had my camera for about 2 years and all of the sudden, now when i take pictures half of them get developed but the other half are really really dark and fuzzy. I know it isn't the lighting because I have tried several times in really well lit places and it still comes out this way
Check the developed film if the sproket holes are intact.
check your camera without film.
(1) open the back, do it as if you were taking pictures with different apartures/shutter speeds. If you can see the light coming in from the lens (no matter how little or how fast), your shutter and aparture diaphram are good.
if not, send it for service.
(2) if yes, check that the winding sproket wheel turns when you advance film.
(3) if it goes freely, try it again with finger pressing the sproket wheel. if this stops the wheel to turn, it is the gear/shaft inside disengaged. send it for service, of course.
(4) if your camera has a button for multiple exposure, ensure that it can be turned on/off as you wish, or you do not pressed it unnoticed.
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A number of things could be the cause, camera and processing. If it is C41, negative film, we will rule out processing.
Another thing is your camera may not be setting the exposure correctly. Are you setting the exposure manually or automatically? With the camera in automatic exposure open the back, point to a bright spot press the shutter, do you see light? Then Set the camera to one second, and at the widest aperture, say f2.8, open the back press the shutter, now do you see light?
Depending on the results you will need to decide if the camera is worth repairing or a new/used one is in your future.
your problem is the focusing areas, im sorry that I do not know how to turn it off, the rectangle you see is the area is focusing on, and the darkness is what the camera doesnt focus on, try reading the manual, or turning it off yourself.
Might be film coming loose when inserting in loading spool and skipping when winding forward after making a shot. Could try bending first 1/2" of film tongue before inserting in slot in windup spool so that it won't slip out and be sure film sprocket holes are engaged with film transport sprockets and a bit under tension when loading film before closing camera cover. Your 'half-frame' problem might be that you are shooting at a 'flash' shutter setting of 1/60 when not using flash.
I haven't heard of this camera, but most film cameras have a display somewhere that will show you how many have been taken. They don't usually show how many are left because film rolls can have anywhere from 12-36 pictures on them. If you are unsure about how many the roll of film had, you should assume it was a 24 exposure roll. 24 is the most common. If it doesn't have a number anywhere that you can see, you should take pictures until it stops winding.
If the film has been in the camera for a long time, it's probably better to just unload it and have it developed anyway. Film goes stale after a year or so for most films, so you may not have any good pictures on it anyway.
Hope this helps, if not make a comment with more information and I'll see if I can find a manual online for your camera. I'll need model number and as much more info as you can give.
If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.
Two possibilities : 1 ) your film was not properly loaded into the pick up spool and hence it was transported or exposed ; what you took to the lab was unexposed film. 2) the shutter is not opening and again no exposure takes place. To check this open back , set to slow speed like 8th of a second, and see if the shutter opens and closes properly. If the shutter does not open then it will have to go in, unfortunately. Cost ? If it is just an adjustment ( as I suspect is the case ) you should not pay more than $ 100.
the film is pulled by gears as u click and wind..one gear tooth
broke inside camera body causes weird things like u said and then catches to move around to get the clich again.
dont know if gear is plastic or metal I read on internet some metal gear replacements....try looking there.
really not sure but i think im in the ball park.
Check your mirror lock up switch. This function is
used for long exposures locking the mirror in
the up position to reduce vibration before the shutter is released, but you
will not be able to use the view finder.