I have had my camera for about 2 years and all of the sudden, now when i take pictures half of them get developed but the other half are really really dark and fuzzy. I know it isn't the lighting because I have tried several times in really well lit places and it still comes out this way
Check the developed film if the sproket holes are intact.
check your camera without film.
(1) open the back, do it as if you were taking pictures with different apartures/shutter speeds. If you can see the light coming in from the lens (no matter how little or how fast), your shutter and aparture diaphram are good.
if not, send it for service.
(2) if yes, check that the winding sproket wheel turns when you advance film.
(3) if it goes freely, try it again with finger pressing the sproket wheel. if this stops the wheel to turn, it is the gear/shaft inside disengaged. send it for service, of course.
(4) if your camera has a button for multiple exposure, ensure that it can be turned on/off as you wish, or you do not pressed it unnoticed.
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A number of things could be the cause, camera and processing. If it is C41, negative film, we will rule out processing.
Another thing is your camera may not be setting the exposure correctly. Are you setting the exposure manually or automatically? With the camera in automatic exposure open the back, point to a bright spot press the shutter, do you see light? Then Set the camera to one second, and at the widest aperture, say f2.8, open the back press the shutter, now do you see light?
Depending on the results you will need to decide if the camera is worth repairing or a new/used one is in your future.
Are you looking at the picture as in a print OR are you holding the negative up to the light and looking at it that way. Don't touch the negatives, they should be in a protective sleeve but you can see through it. You should be able to see if the spacing between the frames is messed up and if you have lighter and darker negatives. Looking at a print from an automated one hour service isn't worth the time of day to determine a problem. The Pentax K1000 is the work horse of the century for students learning photography and a lot of them have seen extensive use, also the camera is quite old. What I expect is if the negatives are showing overlapping frames AND the exposure is off sometimes over and other times underexposed then the camera needs service lubrication and adjustment. It's great that the light meter is working but the shutter speed could be off and the advance is skipping giving the overlap. I don't know where you are in this world but in Canada that's a $80.00 to $120.00 fix and have the repair person change the light seals while he/she has it apart. The Pentax K1000 is still a great camera it's up to you whether or not to spend the money. I can't tell you what to do but I can suggest that if you are going to shoot film you find some place that does it with a little more human touch. Hope this was a help
Might be film coming loose when inserting in loading spool and skipping when winding forward after making a shot. Could try bending first 1/2" of film tongue before inserting in slot in windup spool so that it won't slip out and be sure film sprocket holes are engaged with film transport sprockets and a bit under tension when loading film before closing camera cover. Your 'half-frame' problem might be that you are shooting at a 'flash' shutter setting of 1/60 when not using flash.
1. Turn the rewind crank gently to take up any slack in the film.
2. Take your first photo. The 3800N has a special lens mask to help this process by blanking out one half or one quarter of the image, on other cameras a thin card mask over the lens achieves the same effect.
3. Hold the camera so that your thumb or finger is firmly on top of the rewind knob to stop it turning, whilst doing this press the rewind button on the base of the camera and then operate the film advance lever. By holding the rewind knob and pressing the rewind button, you allow the shutter to c0ck without advancing the film.
4. Turn the lens mask to cover the portion of the image which was just exposed.
5. Press the shutter using the same exposure value (EV) as previously used. Usually you'll use the same shutter speed and aperture, but by varying them and maintaining the same EV you can get some interesting effects.
6. If you're exposing more than two exposures on one frame then repeat as often as required.
7. Note that this is and always has been a bodge: the film frame often moves slightly between exposures except on a few specific SLRs which had a special multiple exposure setting. The V3800N is advertised as a multi exposure model but has no specific control for it, just the plastic lens mask.
If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.
Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.
I would suggest you buy an off-brand roll of 12 or 24 exposures. Run it through the camera taking snaps of anything -- but make sure you vary the lighting, ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. as you snap the pics. Don't worry too much about composition. This roll is a quick test, NOT for photos to keep.
Have the film developed and then follow-up with comments on the results. I'll gladly assist you further at that time. Char1ieJ
To check to see if it is a camera fault of developing fault you could try using a cheap colour film in the camera and getting it developed at a normal photo processor.
This will determine in which half of the process the fault lies.
If the pictures from the colour film are the same then it must be a camera usage problem or fault.
If the pictures are ok from the colour film then it will be a problem in either the film being used, developing problem (poor mix of chemicals etc).
Two possibilities : 1 ) your film was not properly loaded into the pick up spool and hence it was transported or exposed ; what you took to the lab was unexposed film. 2) the shutter is not opening and again no exposure takes place. To check this open back , set to slow speed like 8th of a second, and see if the shutter opens and closes properly. If the shutter does not open then it will have to go in, unfortunately. Cost ? If it is just an adjustment ( as I suspect is the case ) you should not pay more than $ 100.